Collared Utility Jacket with Patch and Welt Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Cotton fabric: POCKET BAG - QTY 4, PATCH POCKET LINING - QTY 4

CUTTER'S MUST

• UPPER COLLAR - QTY 1 on fold
• LOWER COLLAR - QTY 1 on fold
• COLLAR STAND - QTY 2 on fold
• POCKET WELT - QTY 2
• YOKE - QTY 1 on fold
• PATCH POCKET FLAP - QTY 4
• PATCH POCKET - QTY 2
• SIDE POCKET PART - QTY 2
• LEFT FRONT PANEL PLACKET - QTY 2
• RIGHT FRONT PANEL FACING - QTY 2
• FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• UPPER SLEEVE - QTY 2
• LOWER SLEEVE - QTY 2
• BACK PANEL - QTY 1 on fold
• CUFF - QTY 4
• SLEEVE FACING - QTY 2

For the LINING pattern, use the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL without changes, shortening the bottom by 2 cm; both SLEEVE parts - shortening the bottom by 3 cm; POCKET BAG - without changes. Fusible interfacing is ironed onto the upper and lower COLLARS, pocket, right FRONT PANEL FACING, bottom hems of the FRONT PANEL, BACK PANEL and SLEEVE, half the width of the POCKET WELT, COLLAR STAND, pocket flaps, and left FRONT PANEL PLACKET.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the upper and lower COLLARS, COLLAR STANDS, pockets, right FRONT PANEL FACING details, outer part of the left FRONT PANEL PLACKET, bottom hems of the FRONT PANELS, BACK PANEL and SLEEVES, half the width of the POCKET WELTS, all pocket flap details with fusible interfacing (Heat-adhesive interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the detail with a hot iron).
2. Fold the side pocket part in half lengthwise with the right side in and stitch at a distance of 2.5 mm from the fold.
3. Attach one side of the side pocket part to the side and bottom edges of the pocket with right sides together (leaving the upper pocket hem protruding); press the side pocket part to the wrong side of the pocket and stitch a decorative stitch along the edge.
4. Fold the pocket LINING pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges.
5. Attach the upper edge of one of the pocket LINING parts to the top of the pocket with right sides together; turn out, press, and stitch a decorative stitch 1.5 cm from the top of the pocket.
6. Place the pocket, combined with the LINING, onto the FRONT PANEL according to the markings, turn under the top of the inner LINING part and the open edges of the side pocket part, and stitch along the edge to the FRONT PANEL.
7. Press the pocket, folding the side pocket part inwards.
8. Fold the pocket flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edges; turn out, press, and stitch a decorative stitch 1 cm from the edge.
9. Place the flap, turned upwards, onto the FRONT PANEL according to the markings, stitch and trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 5 mm; press the flap downwards and stitch a securing stitch 1 cm from the edge.
10. On each FRONT PANEL, create a "Welt pocket with a welt" - Fold the welt in half lengthwise with the right side in and stitch the short edges; turn out and press.
11. Stitch a decorative stitch 1 cm along the fold of the welt, leading the stitch diagonally to the corner of the welt.
12. Pin the welt, turned downwards, to the right side of the garment according to the markings.
13. Place the pocket bag made of LINING fabric over the welt; pin the pocket bag made of main fabric, turned upwards, and stitch at a distance of 5 mm on both sides of the mark.
14. Cut the fabric in the center between the stitches, leading to the corners at the ends of the stitches, and turn the pocket bags to the wrong side.
15. Topstitch the free edge of the welt to the pocket bag with a zigzag stitch.
16. Fold both pocket bags, align, and stitch along the contour.
17. From the right side, stitch the ends of the welt to the main garment; attach the short sides of the welt to the main garment with an additional decorative stitch 1 cm from the edge.
18. Fold the YOKE and BACK PANEL pieces right sides together and stitch; turn out, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the YOKE, and stitch a decorative stitch 1 cm from the edge.
19. Similarly, attach the YOKE pieces to the FRONT PANELS.
20. Stitch the side SEAM ALLOWANCES, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL, and stitch a decorative stitch 5 mm from the edge.
21. Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE up to the slit mark, overcast and press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the upper SLEEVE part and stitch a decorative stitch 1 cm from the edge, below the slit, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
22. Create a "Sleeve slit" - Pin the slit FACING right side to the wrong side of the SLEEVE according to the markings and stitch along the edge.
23. Finish the open edge with a machine-stitched hem.
24. Make NOTCHES in the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the base of the slit and turn half the width of the FACING to the right side of the garment.
25. Fold under the open edges of the FACING and topstitch along the edge to the SLEEVE.
26. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seam.
27. Set the SLEEVE into the armhole, aligning control marks, overcast SEAM ALLOWANCES, press towards the armhole, and stitch a decorative stitch 1 cm from the edge.
28. Fold the CUFF pieces right sides together, stitch the short and one long edge, and turn out.
29. Place the reinforced CUFF piece onto the lower edge of the SLEEVE with right sides together and stitch; straighten the CUFF, press the open edge inwards, and topstitch to the main garment along the previous seam, continuing the decorative stitch 5 mm around the entire perimeter of the CUFF.
30. Fold the left FRONT PANEL PLACKET pieces and stitch along the curved and bottom edges.