Fitted Button-Front Shirt with Ray Neckline Darts
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a sharply tailored, fitted button-front shirt featuring elegant neckline ray darts, a classic shirt collar, and cuffed long sleeves.
When To Wear:
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Office & Business Professional: Its crisp silhouette makes it a perfect staple for the workplace.
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Smart Casual Gatherings: Easily dressed up or down for various social settings.
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Versatile Layering: An ideal foundation piece for blazers, cardigans, or standalone wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bust and waist with shaping darts on both front and back, creating a sleek and tailored profile.
Neckline & Collar: Decorative ray neckline darts and pointed shirt collar with a separate stand, offering a polished neckline.
Closure: Full-length button-front closure with seven buttons for a classic closure.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves finished with tailored buttoned cuffs and a functional sleeve placket.
Front Details: Ray neckline darts fanning from the neckline adding a touch of elegance.
Back: Center back seam with shaping darts for a refined fit.
Hem: Straight hem, suitable for tucking in or wearing untucked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in collar and cuff construction, button plackets, and accurate dart sewing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose crisp, lightweight fabrics with good drape and structure for a polished finish:
- Blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
- Cotton (e.g., shirting, poplin)
- Viscose
- Polyester blends
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 9 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 qty
- Front - 2 qty
- Sleeve – 2 qty
- Collar – 2 qty
- Collar stand – 2 qty
- Cuff – 2 qty
- Sleeve placket - 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 qty
- Collar stand – 1 qty
- Front placket – 2 qty
- Cuff – 2 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the integrated placket, cuffs, upper collar, and inner collar stand with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar, right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts on the front panels. Press the waist darts towards the center of the front, and the bust darts away from the center. Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center seam of the back. Serge the seam and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Serge the seams and press towards the back. Turn the plackets under twice to the wrong side and topstitch along the inner edge of the placket.
- Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the lower collar stand, and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment. Topstitch along the collar stand and collar.
- Slit processing: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping the corner at the top of the slit. Turn the section from the slit to the marked line, measuring 1.7 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the corner up to the transverse mark. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching, clip the seam allowance at the end of the stitching. Turn the placket right side out, press, and topstitch along the fold line from the bottom to the transverse mark at 0.1 cm. Fold the placket with the sleeve, right sides together, and attach the inner side along the marked line. At the end of the stitching, clip the sleeve transversely from the slit to the attachment line. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the open edge, and attach. Align the placket with the marked line on the sleeve and topstitch the upper corner along the contour and along the transverse mark.
- Stitch and serge the sleeve edges. Attach the sleeves, easing the cap.
- Fold the cuffs in half and stitch the short sides and the section up to the notch. Clip the seam allowance near the notch. Turn the cuffs right side out and press. Create pleats on the sleeve along the marked lines. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Turn under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam. Make buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on buttons.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front, and sew on buttons on the left.
