Corset-Inspired Blouse-Jacket

Name: Corset-Inspired Blouse-Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5573
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5573

A women's hip-length blouse-jacket in wool suiting: a softly gathered upper front with a V-neck and a stand collar cut in one with it, short cut-on sleeves with pleats at the shoulder and an underarm insert, and a panelled corset-style lower front fastening with four buttons. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: wool suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Corset-Inspired Blouse-Jacket

When To Wear

With high-waisted trousers or a pencil skirt for the office.
Spring and autumn, worn on its own as a top or as a light jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fuller through the shoulders and bust, fitted at the waist by the panelled lower section.

Length: Ends just below the waist, at the high hip; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Collar: Stand collar cut in one with the upper fronts, joined at the centre back and attached to the back neckline, the upper stand topstitched over the seam. The front edges form a V-neck.

Sleeves: Short, cut in one with the upper front and back, pleated along the shoulder seam as shown on the drawing; a separate lower sleeve piece is set into the lower armhole.

Front: Upper front gathered along its lower edge and joined to the centre front and middle front panels; the seam is pressed down and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. The lower front is shaped by vertical panel seams and side panels running into the princess seams.

Closure: Overlapping front opening on the lower section with interfaced front facings and four buttons.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams to the side panels.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Gathering into a shaped panel seam, a stand collar cut in one with the fronts, sleeve pleats, an underarm insert set into a cornered armhole and faced front edges with turned corners.

Fabric Recommendations

Wool suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings)
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Back – 2 pieces
Side – 2 pieces
Middle Front – 2 pieces
Center Front – 2 pieces
Upper Front – 2 pieces
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing pieces.
Stitch the Middle Front to the Center Front. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the Center Front.
Run a line of loose (long) stitches 0.5 cm from the lower edge of the Upper Front. Gather the edge to match the upper edges of the Center Front and Middle Front, distributing the gathers evenly along the entire length.
Stitch the Upper Front to the Center Front and Middle Front. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the Center Front and Middle Front. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch and overlock the center back seam and press. Stitch and overlock the princess seams joining the Side pieces to the front and back. Press the back princess seams towards the center back and the front princess seams towards the center front.
Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the front, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edge from the bottom upwards. Trim the seam allowances at the corners of the Center Front. Remove the pins. Turn the facing to the wrong side, baste, and press. Remove the basting.
Stitch the shoulder seams, clipping the seam allowances at the corner. Overlock the shoulder seams and press them towards the back. Fold the pleats along the upper (shoulder) seam of the sleeve as shown in the technical drawing.
Place the cut-on stand collar pieces right sides together and stitch. Press the seam open. Stitch the under stand to the neckline. Topstitch the upper stand over the attachment seam.
Stitch the Lower Sleeve to the sleeve edges of the front and back. Overlock the seam allowances and press. Set the Lower Sleeves into the lower part of the armholes. Clip the seam allowances at the corners and overlock the seam.
Overlock the lower edges of the sleeves and the blouse, turn them to the wrong side and topstitch.