Asymmetrical Peplum Jacket
A women's fitted, fully lined jacket with an off-centre curved front closure fastening with four buttons and fabric loops, a collar with separately cut lapels, princess seams, and a double-layer peplum that drops to two points at the front.
When To Wear
- Over a dress or with a pencil skirt or slim trousers for the office.
- Spring and autumn, for daytime events and dinners.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice and waist by princess seams, with a short peplum below the waist.
Length: Waist-length bodice; the peplum is narrow at the back and deepens to pointed ends at the front.
Collar: Notched collar: each lapel is cut separately and joined to the collar, then the under collar is set into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the facings. Lapels and fronts are interfaced.
Closure: Asymmetric front: the right front crosses over to the left along a curved edge and fastens with four fabric loops caught into the right front edge and four buttons on the left front.
Front: Centre front and side front pieces joined by princess seams, pressed open.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and back darts pressed towards the centre.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves, 3 cm hem allowance; shoulder pads.
Waist: Front and back peplum pieces cut double: the outer peplum is stitched to the jacket, the inner one forms the facing, joined along the lower edge and stitched in the ditch over the lining.
Lining: Full lining, including sleeves, attached to the front facings, back neck facing and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A collar with separate lapels set between jacket and facings, an asymmetric faced front edge with fabric loops, a double peplum with corners and a full bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, centre fronts, back neck facing, collar, lapels)
- Shoulder pads
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 4 pieces
- Lower Back – 4 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Strip for button loops, 3 cm wide (cut by measurement)
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Center Front, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the center front facings, back neckline facing, center fronts, collar, and lapels.
- Mark the darts on the back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the center.
- Stitch each lapel to a collar piece and press the seam open.
- Stitch the center back seam and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the lower back (peplum) and press open.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front and press open. Stitch the princess seams on the back and press open.
- Stitch the lower front to the lower edge of the front. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the lower back to the lower edge of the back. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press the side and shoulder seams open.
- Stitch the under collar with its lapels into the neckline of the front and back. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings. Press the shoulder seams open. Stitch the upper collar with its lapels into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam open.
- Cut a 3 cm wide strip of main fabric for the button loops. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, closing one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut the strip into loops and fold each loop in half. Baste the loops to the right front at the marks.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner lower front and lower back (peplum facing). Press the side seams open. Overlock the upper edge of the inner peplum.
- Place the center front facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, lapel and collar edge. Place the outer and inner peplum right sides together and stitch along the lower edge of the jacket; trim the seam allowances at the corners. Understitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the facing along the buttoned section and onto the front along the lapel. Turn the front edges and the peplum right side out and roll the seams. Press the peplum and front edges.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and back neckline facing. Press open the collar seam allowances and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the hem. Align the hems of the jacket and the lining. Lay the upper edge of the inner peplum over the lining and stitch it in the ditch of the outer peplum seam.
- Mark the button positions on the left front and sew on the buttons.
