Jacket with Decorative Front Stitching and Back Buckled Tabs
A women's hip-length jacket with a stand collar, an off-centre separating zipper hidden under a cut-on placket, princess seams with yokes front and back, and flap pockets. Two straps join with a buckle across the back waist. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light outer jacket over tops and fine knitwear.
- With jeans or slim trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: Stand collar, cut in two pieces.
Closure: Separating zipper. On the right front it is covered by a cut-on placket and topstitched 0.5 cm from the zipper seam; on the left front it runs along the edge, with topstitching 3.5 cm from the edge.
Front: Yoke from the shoulder into the princess seam; rows of decorative horizontal stitching on the side fronts at the waist. All seams topstitched 0.5 cm.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with flaps on the lower side fronts, with lining-fabric pocket bags.
Back: Back yoke, princess seams, centre back seam and a curved seam joining the upper and lower back. Two shaped straps are stitched to the side backs and fasten with a buckle.
Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Many panels with topstitched seams, an asymmetric zipper closure with a cut-on placket, flap welt pockets, a stand collar and a bagged lining with set-in sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, facings, back neck facing, upper collar, flaps) and stay tape for the pocket openings
- Separating zipper
- Buckle
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Center Right Front – 1 piece
- 2. Center Left Front – 1 piece
- 3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 4. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower Back – 2 pieces
- 6. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 7. Upper Back – 2 pieces
- 8. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 9. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 10. Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- 11. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 12. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 13. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Flap – 4 pieces
- 15. Strap 1 – 2 pieces
- 16. Strap 2 – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 2. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Middle Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- 6. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
- 9. Side Back – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Center Right Front, Center Left Front, one Stand Collar piece (upper collar), Flap, stay tape.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Center Right Front, Center Left Front, upper Stand Collar piece and Flaps.
- Sew the rows of decorative horizontal stitching on the Side Fronts (as shown on the technical drawing). Stitch the princess seams on the front (center front to Side Front) and press them open. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Upper Back to the Lower Back. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seam on the back (to the Side Back) and press it open. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open.
- Place two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Place the two Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Press the cut-on placket of the Center Right Front to the wrong side. Stitch the zipper to the edge of the placket. Stitch the other half of the zipper to the Center Left Front and press the left front edge. Note: on the right front the zipper is covered by the cut-on placket; on the left front the zipper runs along the front edge.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, with the front on top, from the bottom up. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the lower corners. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Place each pair of Strap 1 and Strap 2 pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the straps. Place the straps at the notches on the Side Back and stitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the under collar layer to the jacket neckline and the upper (interfaced) collar layer to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Topstitch along the front edges: on the right front 0.5 cm from the zipper seam, on the left front 3.5 cm from the front edge.
- Cut the welts for the side welt pockets and reinforce the pocket opening with stay tape. Mark the pocket placement. Fold the welts in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a guide line on each welt parallel to the fold for stitching it on. Mark a guide line on the Flap parallel to its upper edge, keeping the flap width even along its whole length. Mark guide lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and the welts. Stitch a Pocket Lining to the flap. Stitch the welts to the front; the stitching must end exactly at the end lines of the pocket marking. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel. Cut the pocket opening, ending with diagonal cuts into the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welts through the opening to the wrong side, ease out the edges and adjust the welts so that their pressed folds meet edge to edge. Secure the pocket ends on the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch it to the upper welt. Stitch the second Pocket Lining into the seam of the lower welt, then trim and stitch the pocket lining pieces together.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Attach the buckle to the strap.
