Fitted Single-Breasted Blazer
A hip-length fitted women's blazer with a notched collar, two-piece set-in sleeves and a one-button front. A horizontal inset band at the waist divides the front and back into darted upper parts and paneled lower parts. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- To the office over shirts, blouses and fine knitwear, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- Spring and autumn, worn open or buttoned over a dress.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by darts in the upper front and upper back and by the vertical panel seams below the waist.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the under collar is set into the blazer neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and under sleeve) with an elbow seam.
Front: Upper front with a dart, a waist inset with a lower edge angled down towards the centre front, and a lower front cut as centre and side panels. Inset seams are pressed open and topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Closure: Single-breasted, one button on the waist inset, buttonhole on the right front; separate front facings.
Back: Centre back seam; upper back with darts, a straight horizontal waist inset cut in one piece, and a lower back cut as centre and side panels. Inset seams topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Front edges understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining cut as front, side panel, back and two-piece sleeves, attached to the facings, back neck facing and hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Matching the inset seams across the front and side seams, a notched collar set between the blazer and the facings, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, upper collar, back neck facing, upper front, lower front pieces)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Center Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Inset – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Center Lower Front Part – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Front, lower front pieces.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the center front facing, upper collar, back neckline facing, upper front, and lower front pieces.
- Mark the darts on the upper front and upper back. Stitch the darts; press the back darts towards the center back and the front darts towards the center front.
- Place the upper collar on the lower collar and stitch around. Roll the seams and press the collar.
- Stitch the center lower front part to the side lower front. Press the seam open. Stitch the front inset to the lower front. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the upper front to the upper edge of the front inset. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm.
- Place the center front facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, from the hem up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the facing along the buttoned section and onto the front along the lapel. Turn the front edges right side out and roll the seams.
- Stitch the center back seam of the upper back and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the center lower back and press open. Stitch the center lower back to the lower side back and press the seam open. Stitch the back inset to the lower back. Press the seam open and topstitch along the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the upper back to the upper edge of the back inset, press the seam open and topstitch at 0.2 cm.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the blazer and press them open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the center front facings and press them open. Stitch the lower collar to the blazer neckline and the upper collar to the neckline of the facings.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the collar seam allowances and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hems of the blazer and sleeves. Turn the blazer right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Work a buttonhole on the right front and sew the button onto the left front.
