Collarless Front Zipper Jacket
A short, fitted women's jacket with a collarless round neckline, a centre front separating zip, armhole princess seams on the front and back and two-piece set-in sleeves. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- Over blouses, fine knitwear and dresses at the office.
- With trousers or a straight skirt in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams running from the armholes on the front and back and by a bust dart on the front.
Length: Short, ending at the high hip.
Neckline: Round, collarless, finished with a back neck facing joined to the front facings.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and under sleeve) with an elbow seam.
Closure: Centre front separating zip set between the front edges and the front facings, with no overlap; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Shoulder pads and sleeve heads; 3 cm hem allowance on the jacket and sleeves.
Lining: Full lining cut on the same panel lines (centre back, side back, front, side front, two-piece sleeves), attached to the facings and hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams with a bust dart, a separating zip set evenly into both front edges, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
- Separating zip
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included; if the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm; jacket and sleeve hem allowance – 3 cm. First print the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine how much fabric you need (remember paired and symmetrical pieces). Match the notches when stitching!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Neckline Facing.
- Mark and stitch the bust dart on the front and press it. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back.
- Place the fronts right sides together and align edges, measuring the length of the front edges. Stitch the separating zipper to the front edges. Fold under the edges of the front along the zipper section and press.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the neckline section of the front for 2-3 cm. Stitch from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch along the front edge at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Stitch the facings to the back and front neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten the seams and press.
- Stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve along the back (elbow) seam and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set in the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Neckline Facing.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
