Jacket with Curved Bust Darts

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Front Facing – 2 QTY
• 6. Back Neck FACING – 1 QTY
• 7. Under COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 8. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 9. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 10. Under SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 6. Under SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Front Facing, Back Neck FACING, Center FRONT PANEL, Upper COLLAR.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the Front Facing, Back Neck FACING, Center FRONT PANEL, and Upper COLLAR.
2. Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center. Mark dart on the FRONT PANEL. Stitch FRONT PANEL dart, trim dart depth. Press FRONT PANEL dart open.
3. Fold upper COLLAR with under COLLAR and stitch around. Turn out seams and press COLLAR.
4. Stitch the princess seam on the FRONT PANEL. Press the princess seam on the FRONT PANEL open.
5. Place the Front Facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side. Stitch the lower edges of the Front Facings to the FRONT PANEL precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the front edge FACING to the Front Facing in the fastener area. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam (stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and lower corner). Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
6. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the Back Neck FACING and Front Facing. Attach the under COLLAR to the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR to the neckline edge of the Back Neck FACING and Front Facing.
8. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and the vent corners on the upper and under SLEEVE. Press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE, make a NOTCH, and press the vent. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
9. Set the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
11. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the Front Facings and Back Neck FACING. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams.
12. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
13. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes, on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons. Mark and sew buttons on the vent.