Three-Quarter Sleeve Jacket
A hip-length women's jacket with three-quarter two-piece sleeves finished with a slit and a hem facing, a notched collar whose lapels are cut as separate pieces, and self-lined patch pockets. Single-breasted with three buttons; fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over a blouse or a sheath dress.
- With a straight skirt or slim trousers for the office.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by front and back princess seams and back darts.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Notched collar; the lapel is a separate piece joined to the collar, and the collar with lapel is set into the neckline of the jacket and of the facings.
Front: Centre, middle and side front panels with princess seams pressed open.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length, two-piece set-in sleeves with a slit in the elbow seam; the slit and the sleeve hem are finished with a facing.
Pockets: Patch pockets with rounded corners, each cut double and bagged, then topstitched in place on the fronts.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts pressed towards the centre.
Lining: Full lining, attached to the sleeve hem facing and bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, a collar assembled from collar and lapel pieces, faced sleeve slits, bagged patch pockets and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, collar, lapels, centre fronts, sleeve hem facings)
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Pocket – 4 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lapel – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Hem Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel, Center Front, Sleeve Hem Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapels, Center Fronts and Sleeve Hem Facings.
- Mark the darts on the back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the centre.
- Stitch the Lapel to the Collar and press the seam open.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Stitch the princess seams on the front (Center Front, Middle Front, Side Front) and on the back (Center Back to Side Back) and press them open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Place two Pocket pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Stitch around the rest of the pocket, leaving an opening of about 5 cm in the side for turning. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded corners and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket to the front along the marking.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Stitch the under collar with its lapel into the neckline of the fronts and back. Press the seam open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the upper collar with its lapel into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam open.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, the lapel and the outer edge of the collar, working from the bottom up with the front on top. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: along the buttoning edge, to the facing; along the lapels, to the front, stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and from the lower corner. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve), leaving the slit open. Press the elbow seam open and press the slit. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open. Face the slit and the sleeve hem with the Sleeve Hem Facing. Press the sleeve hem and the slit.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Tack the collar seam allowances together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and to the Sleeve Hem Facings. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
