Curved Empire-Yoke Jacket
A hip-length, fitted women's jacket with a notched collar and a three-button front. Each front is cut in six pieces: a curved seam under the bust divides it into upper and lower sections, each made of centre, middle and side panels, with every seam topstitched 0.5 cm away. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- For the office with a straight skirt or trousers.
- In spring and autumn over a dress or a fine top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by the panel seams at the front and princess seams at the back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; under collar set into the jacket neckline, upper collar into the back neck facing.
Front: A curved seam under the bust rises to the top button; vertical seams continue above and below it. All front seams are pressed open and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. The front edges are shaped.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves; the front sleeve seam is topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams, all topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Lining: Full lining cut in the same panels as the jacket, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Twelve front panels joined with a curved seam and even topstitching, a notched collar, two-piece sleeves and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, upper collar, back neck facing, all front panels)
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Center Upper Front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center Lower Front Part – 2 pieces
- 7. Middle Lower Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Middle Upper Front – 2 pieces
- 9. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Lower Collar – 1 piece
- 11. Upper Collar – 1 piece
- 12. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 13. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Lower Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Side Upper Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Center Upper Front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center Lower Front Part – 2 pieces
- 7. Middle Lower Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Middle Upper Front – 2 pieces
- 9. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 10. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Center Upper Front, Center Lower Front Part, Middle Upper Front, Middle Lower Front, Side Upper Front, Side Lower Front.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Center Upper Front, Center Lower Front Part, Middle Upper Front, Middle Lower Front, Side Upper Front and Side Lower Front.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Stitch the Middle Lower Front to the Center Lower Front Part. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Side Lower Front to the Middle Lower Front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Middle Upper Front to the Center Upper Front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Side Upper Front to the Middle Upper Front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the assembled upper front to the assembled lower front along the curved seam. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the shaped front edge. Stitch with the front on top, from the bottom up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: below the lapels, to the facing; along the lapels, to the front. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Stitch the princess seams on the back (Center Back to Side Back) and press them open. Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Topstitch along the centre back and princess seams 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline and the Upper Collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the front sleeve seam (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the elbow seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
