Utility Bomber Jacket with Pockets

Women’s Utility Zip-Front Jacket with Front Yoke, Patch Pockets with Buttoned Flaps & Zipper Pocket

A women's waist-length bomber jacket with a separating zip front, front yokes, a shirt-type collar and knit waistband and cuffs. Four pockets: a flapped breast patch pocket, a zipped welt pocket and two gusseted patch pockets with buttoned flaps. Fully lined.

When To Wear

• Spring and autumn, over T-shirts, shirts and light knitwear.
• With jeans or cargo trousers for everyday wear and travel.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Bomber shape, with the body and sleeves blousing over a knit band and knit cuffs.

Length: Waist length, finished with a knit waistband in three parts (back and two fronts) with woven tabs at the front ends.

Collar: Two-piece turn-down collar (upper and lower collar), lower collar interfaced.

Sleeves: Long one-piece set-in sleeves, gathered into folded knit cuffs.

Closure: Separating zipper with separate front facings, topstitched 0.5 cm along the zipper.

Pockets: On the right front, a patch breast pocket under a flap that fastens with one button and a folded fabric loop; on the left front, a vertical zipped welt pocket. Lower patch pockets with side gussets and flaps fastened with two buttons each; flaps topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge.

Front: Separate yokes, seams topstitched 0.5 cm.

Back: Centre back seam, no yoke.

Lining: Full lining with lining sleeves, attached to the upper collar and the facings.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A separating zipper with facings, a zipped welt pocket, gusseted patch pockets, a lined jacket with knit bands.

Fabric Recommendations

Raincoat fabric for the jacket; knit fabric (rib knit) for the waistband and cuffs.

Additional Supplies

• Rib knit for the waistband and cuffs
• Lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing (front facings, lower collar, waistband tabs, stay tape for the zipped pocket opening)
• Separating zipper for the front
• Zipper for the breast pocket
• 5 buttons

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Left Front – 1 piece
3. Right Front – 1 piece
4. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
5. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Upper Collar – 1 piece
8. Lower Collar – 1 piece
9. Waistband Tab – 2 pieces
10. Pocket – 2 pieces
11. Pocket Side – 2 pieces
12. Front Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
13. Breast Pocket Flap – 2 pieces
14. Breast Pocket – 1 piece

From Rib Knit:

1. Back Belt – 1 piece
2. Front Belt – 2 pieces
3. Cuff – 2 pieces

From Lining:

1. Upper Pocket Small Lining (for zipper pocket) – 1 piece
2. Upper Pocket Big Lining (for zipper pocket) – 1 piece
3. Front lining – 2 pieces (cut using the Left Front and Right Front pattern pieces joined with the Front Yoke)
4. Back lining – 2 pieces (cut using the Back pattern piece)
5. Sleeve lining – 2 pieces (cut using the Sleeve pattern piece)

From Fusible Interfacing:

For drafting fusible interfacing patterns, use main patterns:

1. Center Front Facing – cut 2.
2. Lower Collar – cut 1.
3. Waistband Tab – cut 2.
4. Zipper pocket opening (stay tape) – cut a rectangle 2 cm longer than the pocket opening, 3 cm wide.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Preparation

Fuse Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Lower Collar, Waistband Tabs and the zipper pocket opening on the Left Front. Fuse from the wrong side using a hot iron.

2. Collar

• Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together.
• Stitch around the outer edges, clip corners, turn right side out, and press.

3. Breast Pocket Flap & Fastening Loop

Loop

• Cut a narrow strip of fabric for the loop.
• Fold the strip lengthwise wrong sides together, turn raw edges inward, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the folded edge.
• Fold the strip in half to form a triangle and secure the base with a short row of stitching.
• Mark placement and stitch the loop to the lower edge of the Breast Pocket Flap.

Flap

• Place the Breast Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edges.
• Turn through the open top edge, press, and topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge.

Pocket

• Mark the Breast Pocket placement on the Right Front.
• Overlock the outer edges of the Breast Pocket.
• Press the upper seam allowance of the Breast Pocket to the wrong side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the fold.
• Press the remaining edges under using the Breast Pocket pattern piece as a template.
• Position the pocket on the Right Front as marked and topstitch, reinforcing the corners with bar tacks.
• Stitch the Front Yoke to the Right Front, catching the flap in the seam.
• Overlock the yoke seam allowances, press, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.

4. Lower Front Pockets

• Mark the pocket placement on both Fronts.
• Prepare the Front Pocket Flaps the same way as the breast pocket flap.
• Overlock the side (outer) edge of the Pocket Side.
• Stitch the Pocket Side to the side and lower edges of the Pocket, then overlock the seam allowances.
• Overlock the upper edge of the Pocket, press it to the wrong side, and topstitch.
• Place the pocket on the markings, turn under the edge of the Pocket Side and topstitch it in place.
• Place the flap at its marking facing upward, stitch, flip it down, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.

5. Zipper Pocket (Left Front)

• Mark the zipper pocket placement on the Left Front.
• Reinforce the pocket opening with fusible stay tape and check the position of the opening line.
• Cut the opening along the marked line, making diagonal cuts toward the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end.
• Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges and press neatly.
• Position the zipper under the opening with teeth visible and stitch in place.
• Stitch the Upper Pocket Small Lining and Upper Pocket Big Lining to the zipper seam allowances, stitch the pocket bag closed, and overlock the edges.

6. Front Yoke

Stitch the Front Yoke to the Left Front, overlock the seam, press, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.

7. Waistband Tab & Back and Front Belts

• Stitch the Waistband Tab to the Front Belt.
• Press the seam and topstitch.
• Stitch the Front Belts to the Fronts.
• Stitch the center back seam of the Back and press it open.
• Stitch the Back Belt to the Back.

8. Front Closure

• Place the Fronts right sides together, align the yoke seams, and check that the front edges are the same length.
• Stitch the zipper to the front edges, then fold and press the front edges along the zipper section.
• Place the Center Front Facing right sides together with the Front and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the side of the Front.
• Turn the facing to the inside, straighten the seam, and press.

9. Main Assembly

• Sew the shoulder and side seams.
• Press seam allowances open.
• Stitch the Lower Collar to the neckline.
• Sew the sleeve seams and press the allowances open.
• Set in the sleeves, matching notches.

10. Lining

• Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves. Press the lining seam allowances.
• Stitch the lining to the Upper Collar and to the inner edges of the facings, stopping 1 cm short of the lower ends.
• Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.

11. Belts & Facings

• Sew the belts to the lower edge of the facings.
• Stitch the lower corners of the belts, trim the seam allowances, turn right side out, and press.

12. Cuffs

• Sew the short seams of the Cuffs.
• Fold each cuff wrong sides together lengthwise.
• Attach the cuffs to the sleeve hems, aligning the cuff seam with the sleeve seam.
• Overlock the upper cuff edge together with the sleeve and lining.

13. Finishing

• Topstitch 0.5 cm along the zipper.
• Work buttonholes on the Front Pocket Flaps as marked.
• Sew on the buttons to match the buttonholes and the breast pocket loop.