Zip-Front Denim Jacket with Decorative Topstitching
A women's hip-length denim jacket with a separating zip front, front and back yokes, vertical panel seams, patch pockets with a welt opening and a hem band. Seams topstitched 0.5 cm in jeans style.
When To Wear
- Spring and autumn, over T-shirts, shirts and dresses.
- With jeans, chinos or skirts for everyday and weekend wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, with vertical panel seams running from the yokes to the hem band on the fronts and the back.
Length: Hip length, finished with a band that is joined to the front facings and turned at the front corners.
Collar: Two-piece shirt-type collar with pointed ends, topstitched along the edge.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a vent in the elbow seam, topstitched 0.5 cm; two-layer cuffs fastened with one button.
Closure: Separating zipper with separate front facings; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the chest below the yokes, each with a welt opening in the pocket itself, welt topstitched 0.2 cm.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and two panel seams, all topstitched 0.5 cm.
Finishing: Seams serged; side and underarm seams stitched in one pass after the sleeves are set into the open armholes.
Lining: Unlined; lining only for the pocket bags.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A welt opening worked in a patch pocket, a separating zipper with facings, sleeve vents and a hem band turned at the front corners, plus many rows of even topstitching.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, collar, welts, cuffs, back band, lower front band)
- Separating zipper
- 2 buttons
- Lining fabric for the pocket bags
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Front Waistband – 4 pieces (two pattern pieces with this label, 2 of each: outer band and lower band)
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Cuff – 4 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket Big Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Upper Collar, Off-Set Welt, Sleeve Cuff, Back Waistband and the lower Front Waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Upper Collar, Off-Set Welt, Sleeve Cuff, Back Waistband and lower Front Waistband.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Trim the allowances, turn the collar right side out and push out the corners. Press the collar.
- Stitch the Center Front to the Side Front and the Center Back to the Side Back (panel seams). Serge the seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the panel seams on the fronts and backs.
- Fold the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark the welt placement on the Patch Pocket. On the welt, mark the stitching line, measuring the width. Place the welt on the pocket and stitch, matching the marked lines. Place the Pocket Big Lining on the right side of the pocket along the marked upper line and stitch. Check from the wrong side that the stitching lines are parallel and the distance between them equals the finished welt width. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts toward the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welt and pocket lining through the opening to the wrong side and straighten the edges. Serge the welt seam. Secure the triangles at the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch. Topstitch 0.2 cm along the upper edge and sides of the welt. Serge the outer edge of the Patch Pocket together with the pocket lining. Press the pocket edges under using the pattern. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch the pocket in place.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front and serge the seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Serge the seam and press it toward the right back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back and serge the seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke seam.
- Stitch the outer Front Waistband to the lower edge of the front and press the seam toward the band. Stitch the Back Waistband to the lower edge of the back and press the seam toward the band.
- Stitch the side seams of the lower (inner) band and press them open. Serge the upper edge of the lower band.
- Place the fronts right sides together with the edges and yokes matching and check that the front edges are the same length. Stitch the zipper to the front edges. Fold and press the front edges along the zipper section.
- Serge the outer edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side. Turn the facings to the inside, straighten the seams and press.
- Stitch and serge the shoulder seams. Press the shoulder seams toward the back.
- Serge the back (elbow) edges of the sleeve. Stitch the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve along the elbow seam up to the vent notch. Press the elbow seam open and topstitch the vent allowances to the sleeve 0.5 cm from the edge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the elbow seam.
- Set the sleeves into the open armholes, matching the notches. Stitch the side seam of the jacket and the underarm seam of the sleeve in one continuous seam, serge and press toward the back.
- Stitch the Lower Collar to the neckline. Turn under the open edge of the Upper Collar and topstitch it over the neckline seam. Topstitch along the collar. Tack the Center Front Facings to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Stitch the front ends of the lower band to the outer edge of the facing at the bottom. Press the seam and turn it to the right side. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge and the lower edge of the jacket with the band. Trim the lower corners and turn them right side out. Press the band, rolling a slight edge from the outer band, and stitch the serged upper edge of the lower band in the ditch of the band seam. Topstitch along the front edge 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the Sleeve Cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, leaving the upper edge open. Turn and press.
- Stitch the outer cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Turn under the upper edge of the inner cuff by 1 cm and topstitch it over the cuff seam. Topstitch around the cuff.
- Mark and make the buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on the buttons.
