Zippered Panelled Jacket with Stand Collar
A short women's denim jacket with a stand collar, a front separating zipper and arched shaped inserts on the front and back, finished with a hem band and two-piece sleeves with cuffs.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn.
- With jeans, trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, short length ending in a hem band.
Collar: Stand collar in two layers, fastened with 2 snaps above the zipper.
Closure: Separating zipper set into the front edges, with the teeth visible, and front facings behind it.
Front: Front yoke; below it an arched shaped insert frames the centre front panel, with a side front panel at each side.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and arched shaped inserts around the centre back panels, matching the front.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a slit in the elbow seam and a two-layer cuff.
Finishing: Panel, insert and yoke seams and the centre back seam topstitched 0.5 cm away; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm along the zipper; collar stand and cuffs topstitched along the contour. The hem band is faced and shows a narrow piping edge from the upper band.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Curved insert seams topstitched in denim, an exposed separating zipper with facings, a faced hem band joined to the facings, and two-piece sleeves with slits and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (facings, collar stand, cuffs, back hem band, lower hem band)
- Separating zipper
- 2 snaps
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Front yoke – 2 pieces
- 2. Shaped insert – 2 pieces
- 3. Center front – 2 pieces
- 4. Side (front) – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- 6. Back yoke – 1 piece
- 7. Shaped insert (back) – 2 pieces
- 8. Side (back) – 2 pieces
- 9. Center back – 2 pieces
- 10. Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- 11. Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- 12. Facing – 2 pieces
- 13. Lower front Waistband – 2 pieces
- 14. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 15. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 16. Sleeve cuff – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facing, collar stand, cuff, back waistband, and lower waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, collar stand, cuff, back waistband, and lower waistband.
- Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour up to the notch. Trim and turn out the collar stand corners. Press the collar stand.
- Attach the front side to the center front. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the center front. Attach the shaped insert to the front. Overlock the seam and press towards the insert. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams attaching the front side and the shaped insert.
- Attach the back side to the center back. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the center back. Attach the shaped back piece to the back. Overlock the seam and press towards the insert. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seams attaching the back side and the shaped insert.
- Attach the yoke to the front and overlock. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the right back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
- Attach the waistband to the front and press the seam allowances towards the waistband. Attach the waistband to the back and press the seam allowances towards the waistband.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the lower front and back waistbands. Overlock the upper edge of the waistband.
- Place front panels right sides together and align the edges, matching the yokes, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the zipper to the edge of the front opening. Fold and press the edges of the front opening in the zipper area.
- Overlock the outer edge of the facing. Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front opening line. Stitching is done from the front side. Turn the front openings to the right side, straighten the seams, and press.
- Stitch and overlock the shoulder and side seams. Press the shoulder and side seams towards the back.
- Insert the upper collar stand into the neckline, fold the raw edge of the lower collar stand, and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment. Topstitch along the collar stand. Secure the facings at the shoulder seams with a 1 cm tack.
- Attach the center edge of the lower waistband to the outer edge of the facing at the bottom. Press the attachment seam and turn to the right side. Stitch the lower corner of the front opening and the bottom of the garment with the waistband. Trim and turn out the lower corners of the front openings. Press the waistband, forming a piping from the upper waistband, and topstitch the upper overlock edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch along the zipper 0.5 cm from the edge of the front opening.
- Overlock the elbow edge of the sleeve. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve up to the notch for the vent. Press open the elbow seam of the sleeve and topstitch the vent allowances 0.5 cm onto the sleeve. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the elbow seam. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and overlock.
- Place cuffs right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Attach the upper cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold the upper edge of the lower cuff by 1 cm and topstitch into the seam of the upper cuff attachment. Topstitch along the contour of the cuff. Insert the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Mark and attach snaps to the collar stand.
