Double-breasted Coat
A women's knee-length double-breasted coat with wide notched lapels, front and back yokes, princess seams and flap pockets. Fully lined, with shoulder pads.
When To Wear
- Over dresses, suits and knitwear in spring and autumn: it is cut from raincoat fabric.
- For the office and city wear with trousers or skirts.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back below the yokes.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: Notched collar with wide lapels, cut as an upper and an under collar.
Closure: Double-breasted with buttons and buttonholes, plus a hidden button on the inner front.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam.
Pockets: Welt pockets with flaps near the side seams.
Front: A yoke across the chest; centre and side front panels below it.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam: to the facing along the closure, to the front along the lapels. Shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, including the yokes, tacked to the coat at the waist seams.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets with flaps, a notched collar set between the coat and the facing, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and a lining bagged out through the sleeve.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre fronts, under collar, front yokes, flaps) and grain line stay tape
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Back center – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Lower collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Back center - 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facing, front center, lower collar, front yoke, flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the facing, front center, lower collar, front yoke, and flap.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the lower collar to the upper collar. Trim, turn out the collar corners. Press the collar.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front and back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the yoke to the front and press open the seam. Attach the yoke to the back and press open the seam.
- Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the flap right side out and press.
- Cut out the facings for the side welt pocket. Mark and reinforce the pocket opening with a grain line strip. Verify pocket placement. Fold the pocket facings lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket facing parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Attach the pocket lining to the flap. Attach the facings to the front. The ends of the stitching should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the accuracy of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket facing. Attach the lower pocket lining to the seam of the lower facing attachment; trim and stitch the pocket lining.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the marked line. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch, which defines the end of the collar insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge facing: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Remove pins. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press the hem of the sleeve.
- Insert the lower collar into the neckline of the coat. Insert the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper collar. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Mark and press the hem of the coat. Finish the hem of the sleeve and coat with lining. Secure the lining to the garment at the waist seams. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Mark and make the buttonholes on the front panels. Sew on the buttons. Mark and sew on the hidden button.
