Sporty Jacket
A short women's denim jacket with a stand collar, a front separating zipper, pleated centre front panels and princess seams front and back, finished with a hem band and two-piece sleeves with snap cuffs.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn.
- With jeans, trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back, short length ending in a hem band.
Collar: Stand collar in two layers, fastened with snaps above the zipper.
Closure: Separating zipper set into the front edges, with the teeth visible, and front facings behind it.
Front: Front yoke; centre front panels with stitched-down vertical pleats, which can be held with rectangular topstitching as shown in the drawing; side front panels.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and princess seams.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a slit in the elbow seam and a two-layer cuff fastened with snaps.
Finishing: Princess seams, yoke seams and centre back seam topstitched 0.5 cm away; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; collar stand and cuffs topstitched along the contour. The hem band is faced and shows a narrow piping edge from the upper band.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Stitched pleats, many topstitched seams in denim, an exposed separating zipper with facings, a faced hem band joined to the facings, and two-piece sleeves with slits and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (facings, collar stand, cuffs, back hem band, lower hem band)
- Separating zipper
- 4 snaps
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side back – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 4. Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 6. Side front – 2 pieces
- 7. Center front – 2 pieces
- 8. Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- 9. Lower Waistband – 2 pieces
- 10. Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- 11. Facing – 2 pieces
- 12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Sleeve cuff – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: facing, Collar Stand; cuff, Back Waistband, and Lower Waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the facing, Collar Stand, cuff, Back Waistband, and Lower Waistband.
- Place Collar Stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour up to the notch. Trim and turn out the Collar Stand corners. Press the Collar Stand.
- Mark and create pleats on the center front. Stitch the pleats on the center front.
- Stitch the front and back princess seams. Overlock the front and back princess seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the front and back princess seams.
- Attach the yoke to the front and overlock the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press it towards the right back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the back yoke to the back and overlock the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke attachment seam.
- Attach the waistband to the front and press the attachment seam towards the waistband. Attach the waistband to the back and press the attachment seam towards the waistband.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the lower front and back waistbands. Overlock the upper edge of the waistband.
- Place front PANELs right sides together and align the edges, matching the yokes, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the zipper to the edge of the front opening. Fold under the edges of the front opening in the zipper area and press.
- Overlock the outer edge of the facing. Place the facing on the right side of the front, face down, and stitch along the front edge line. Stitching is done from the front side. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Overlock the side and shoulder seams. Press the side and shoulder seams towards the back.
- Insert the upper Collar Stand into the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower Collar Stand, and topstitch into the seam of the upper Collar Stand. Topstitch along the Collar Stand. Secure the FACINGs to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm tack.
- Attach the center edge of the lower waistband to the outer edge of the facing at the bottom. Press the attachment seam and turn it to the right side. Stitch the lower corner of the front opening and the bottom of the garment with the waistband. Turn out and trim the lower corners of the front openings. Press the waistband, straightening the piping from the upper waistband, and topstitch the upper overlocked edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch along the front opening line 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Overlock the elbow edge of the sleeve. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve up to the notch for the slit. Press open the elbow seam of the sleeve and topstitch the slit allowances 0.5 cm onto the sleeve. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the elbow seam. Stitch and overlock the front seam of the sleeve.
- Place CUFFs right sides together and stitch along the outer contour.
- Attach the upper cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold under the upper edge of the lower cuff by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper cuff. Topstitch along the cuff contour.
- Set the sleeves into the armhole, matching notches.
- Mark and attach snaps to the Collar Stand and sleeve cuff.
- Tip: If desired, you can topstitch the pleats on the center front with a rectangular topstitch, as shown in the sketch.
