Stand Collar Coat with Buckled Tabs
Stylish and structured, this made-to-measure sewing pattern creates a modern coat featuring a chic stand collar, an asymmetric front zipper, and distinctive buckled tab details.
When To Wear:
- Urban & Everyday Chic: Perfect for elevating daily outfits with its contemporary design and structured silhouette.
- Professional Settings: a refined outer layer suitable for business casual and smart professional environments.
- Transitional Seasons: Provides stylish warmth and protection during cooler spring, autumn, and mild winter days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, semi-fitted silhouette that falls to the knee, offering a sleek and modern line.
Neckline & Collar: Features a stylish stand collar that closes securely with a decorative buckled tab.
Closure: An asymmetric front closure secured with a durable separating zipper, adding a contemporary edge.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves designed for a clean fit, finished with buckled tabs at each cuff.
Pockets: Functional and fashionable, with two large patch pockets on the front, each adorned with a buckled tab, and an additional zippered breast pocket for essentials.
Back: a clean back design with precise shaping seams to ensure a flattering and structured fit.
Length: Designed to fall elegantly around the knee, providing versatile coverage.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. This pattern requires confident sewing skills, including precise zipper insertions, tailored collar construction, accurate buckle & tab application, and full lining assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
Ideal for structured, medium-weight fabrics that hold their shape well and provide a refined finish:
- Trench coat fabrics
- Gabardine
- Wool blends
- Structured cotton twills
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 separating zipper for the front closure
- 7 buckles
- Grommets
- Lining fabric
- 2 zippers for pockets
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Zipper Placket – 2 qty
- 2. Collar Stand – 2 qty
- 3. Center back – 2 qty
- 4. Side back – 2 qty
- 5. Side front – 2 qty
- 6. Center front – 2 qty
- 7. Facing – 2 qty
- 8. Patch Pocket – 2 qty
- 9. Upper Pocket facing – 2 qty
- 10. Large Upper Pocket lining – 1 qty
- 11. Welt – 4 qty
- 12. Belt Loop – 1 qty
- 13. Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- 14. Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- 15. Waistband – 4 qty
- 16. Collar Tab – 1 qty
- 17. Buckle Tab – 6 qty
- 18. Sleeve Tab – 2 qty
- 19. Back Neck facing – 1 qty
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Small Upper Pocket lining – 1 qty
- 2. Center back – 2 qty
- 3. Side back – 2 qty
- 4. Center front – 2 qty
- 5. Side front – 2 qty
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- 8. Patch Pocket lining – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: facing, center front, collar stand, welt, placket, grain line stay.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the facing, center front, collar stand, welt, and placket with fusible interfacing.
- Mark and stitch darts on the front. Trim dart depth and press the dart open. Topstitch along the dart at a distance of 0.5 cm. Stitch and press the princess seam allowances on the front. Topstitch along the princess seam at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Mark and stitch darts on the back. Press darts towards the center and topstitch along the dart at a distance of 0.5 cm. Stitch and press the princess seam allowances on the back. Topstitch along the princess seam at a distance of 0.5 cm. Stitch and press the center back seam. Topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the center seam.
- Mark the placement of the upper pocket on the front. Reinforce the pocket opening with a grain line stay. Verify the upper pocket placement on the front. Fold the pocket facings in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facings parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the pocket facings. Stitch the facings to the front. End the stitching at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, and adjust the facing ends. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper and attach the pocket lining to the facing seam allowances. Stitch the pocket lining and overlock.
- Place the welt pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge of the welt. Press the welt. Mark the placement of the welt on the pocket. On the welt, mark the attachment line to the pocket, measuring the width. Place the welt on the pocket and baste, aligning the marked lines. Place the pocket pieces and pocket lining right sides together to the marked upper and lower lines along with the welt and stitch. Check the correctness of the welt and pocket attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel, and the distance between them equal to the finished welt width). Remove temporary basting threads. Cut open the pocket opening all the way through. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket (careful not to cut the welt). Turn the welt and pocket lining to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Press the sides of the upper and lower pocket according to the pattern with seam allowances turned inwards. Mark the pocket placement on the front and topstitch.
- Insert the collar tab lengthwise in the middle with the right side facing inwards. Stitch the collar tab on three sides, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn the tab right side out and press. Topstitch along the contour of the tab at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. Put the buckle on the tab. Fold the end of the tab to the wrong side, forming a loop, and topstitch. Mark and punch eyelets on the tab. The processing of buckle tabs, sleeve tabs, and waistbands is similar.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise with the right side facing inwards, align the edges, and stitch at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold or creating a 0.1-0.2 cm wide piping on the inside, and press. Cut the belt loop according to the markings.
- Attach the waistband with eyelets to the notches on the side front and stitch to the seam allowance. Attach the tabs with buckles to the center front and front sleeve, stitch, turn, and topstitch. Attach the sleeve tab to the elbow edge of the sleeve and stitch to the seam allowance.
