Collarless Jacket with Decorative Trim
A women's hip-length collarless jacket with a round neckline, a zip front and two-piece set-in sleeves. The fronts and back are cut in three horizontal sections, and decorative braid is topstitched along the joining seams, the front edges and the neckline.
When To Wear
- For the office over a blouse, with a pencil skirt or straight trousers.
- In spring and autumn over a dress or with jeans.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by bust darts; hip length.
Neckline: Round, collarless, finished with a front facing and a back neck facing.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves.
Front: Each front has a yoke, a centre section and a lower section; zip at the centre front, with interfaced facings.
Pockets: Pockets set into the seam between the centre and lower front sections, under topstitched flaps; pocket bags in lining fabric.
Back: Centre back seam, with a back yoke and a lower back section; braid along both horizontal seams.
Finishing: Braid on the front yoke seams, the lower front seams, the back yoke and lower back seams, the front edges and the whole neckline. Back neck facing tacked to the shoulder seams with 1 cm bar tacks; hem overlocked and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pockets set into a horizontal seam under flaps, two-piece set-in sleeves, a zip front with facings and even application of braid along seams and edges.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight fabrics with body: wool or wool blend suiting, tweed, boucle.
Additional Supplies
- Decorative braid
- Zip for the centre front
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, flaps, back neck facing)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Front yoke - 2 pieces
- 2. Front center - 2 pieces
- 3. Front lower - 2 pieces
- 4. Flap - 4 pieces
- 5. Back lower - 2 pieces
- 6. Back center - 2 pieces
- 7. Back yoke - 2 pieces
- 8. Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- 9. Front facing - 2 pieces
- 10. Elbow of sleeve - 2 pieces
- 11. Front of sleeve - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Pocket lining - 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, flap, front, back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Mark and stitch darts on the front. Press bust darts.
- Attach the front yoke to the front center. Overlock the seam and press towards the front center. Topstitch decorative trim.
- Attach the back yoke to the back center. Overlock the seam and press towards the back center.
- Attach the back lower to the back center. Overlock the seam and press towards the back lower.
- Stitch the back center seam, overlock the seam and press towards the right back. Topstitch decorative trim on the yoke and back lower attachment seams.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the corner allowances of the flaps and turn out. Press the flap to its finished shape.
- Mark the attachment line on the flap and attach it to the front center. Place the pocket bag on the right side of the front center and front lower, aligning with notches, right side down, and stitch it. Overlock the bottom edge of the front center and the top edge of the front lower. Fold the seam and topstitch it to the pocket lining. Attach the front lower to the front center. Stitch and overlock the pocket bag. Topstitch decorative trim on the front lower attachment seam.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams. Overlock side and shoulder seams and press towards the back.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seam and overlock. Press the seam towards the front half. Stitch the lower sleeve seam, overlock and press towards the elbow of the sleeve.
- Attach the zipper to the fronts.
- Set the sleeve into the armhole, aligning with notches.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facing and back neckline facing. Press shoulder seams open and overlock the outer edge of the front facing and back neckline facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch around the front and back neckline, as well as the front edge. Stitching is done from the front side. Mark the hemline. Attach the lower edges of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams. Topstitch trim along the front edge and along the front and back neckline. Secure the back neckline facing to the jacket shoulder seam with a 1cm bar tack.
- Overlock the bottom of the jacket and topstitch it to the jacket.
