Fitted Vest with Zip Closure
A women's fitted, fully lined vest with a stand collar and a centre front zip. It has two zipped welt pockets on the chest, two zipped welt pockets lower down at the sides and two patch pockets with flaps.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over a shirt, a polo-neck or a fine sweater.
- With jeans or trousers for everyday wear and walks outdoors.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by bust darts on the fronts and vertical darts on the back; hip length.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, the upper stand interfaced.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with the lining.
Closure: Full-length zip at the centre front, with interfaced facings; front edges topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Two horizontal welt pockets with zips on the chest and two angled welt pockets with zips below them, the openings reinforced with stay tape. Two patch pockets at the hem, left open at the side edge, under flaps topstitched 0.5 cm from the attaching seam.
Back: Centre back seam and two vertical darts.
Lining: Full lining of front and back, attached to the facings, hem and armholes and turned through an opening in the right side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Four zipped welt pockets, patch pockets with flaps, a centre front zip with facings, a two-piece stand collar and a full bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (upper collar stand, front facings)
- Stay tape for the pocket openings
- 1 long zip for the centre front
- 4 zips for the pockets
- 2 buttons for the pocket flaps
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper facing – 4 pieces
- Side facing – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: upper collar stand, facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the upper collar stand and facing.
- Mark and stitch darts on the back. Press darts towards the center back. Mark and stitch the bust dart on the front. Press the bust dart downwards.
- Fold the side and upper pocket facings in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.
- Reinforce the pocket opening with a grain line strip. Mark a guideline on the pocket facing parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the facings. Stitch the facings to the marked lines. Cut the pocket opening, stopping 1.5 cm from the ends. At a distance of 1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the pocket facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the zipper. The processing of the side pockets is similar. Press the finished pocket.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances of the flap corners and turn out. Press the finished flap.
- Overlock the upper edge of the patch pocket. Press the upper seam allowance of the patch pocket and topstitch. Overlock the outer contour of the patch pocket and press the seam allowances according to the pattern, leaving the side edge of the pocket free.
- Mark the pocket placement and topstitch onto the front at a distance of 0.5 cm from the pocket edge.
- Stitch the zipper to the front panels.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge. Stitching is performed from the front side up to the notch, which defines the end of the collar stand insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower edges. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten the seams. Measure the length of the edges and topstitch along the edge at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the lower collar stand to the upper collar stand, turn the collar stand out, trim the corners and press.
- Stitch the center back seam of the back and press open. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the vest. Press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Mark and stitch the flap. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the attachment seam.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right side seam.
- Stitch the lower collar stand into the vest neckline, and the upper collar stand into the lining neckline edge. Press open the collar stand insertion seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Face the armhole of the front and back with lining. Topstitch the armhole facing seam allowances to the lining at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the lining to the outer edges of the facings and the bottom of the garment. Turn the vest through the side seam. Straighten the seams and stitch the opening in the side seam.
