Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Side lower FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
2. Center FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
3. SIDE PANEL – QTY 2
4. Center BACK PANEL – QTY 2
5. Flap – QTY 4
6. Front FACING – QTY 2
7. Lower COLLAR – QTY 1
8. Upper COLLAR – QTY 1
9. Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
10. Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
11. Back neckline FACING – QTY 1
• From LINING fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
2. SIDE PANEL - QTY 2
3. BACK PANEL – QTY 2
4. Pocket LINING – QTY 4
5. Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
6. Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2

Fabric & Materials

FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, flap, GRAIN LINE strip, FRONT PANEL, back neckline FACING, vent SEAM ALLOWANCE, hem of SLEEVE and jacket. GRAIN LINE strip – a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING 4 cm wide, 2-3 cm longer than the pocket opening.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, flap, FRONT PANEL, SLEEVE hem, jacket hem, back neckline FACING, and vent SEAM ALLOWANCE.
2. Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center. Stitch darts up to the NOTCHES on the FRONT PANEL and trim the dart depth; cut the pocket opening.
3. Stitch the side lower part to the FRONT PANEL and press the seam open.
4. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the flap corners and turn out. Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch around. Straighten the seams and press the COLLAR and flap.
5. Cut the FACINGS for the side welt pocket. Secure the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE strip or baste. Fold the pocket FACINGS in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket FACING parallel to the fold for attaching it. Mark a guideline on the flap for attaching it parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket FACINGS. Stitch the pocket LINING to the flap. Stitch the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the FACING attachment from the wrong side (the stitching should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed folds of the FACINGS meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket LINING to the flap. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch it to the upper pocket FACING. Stitch the lower pocket LINING into the seam of the lower FACING attachment; trim and stitch the pocket LINING.
6. Stitch the center seam of the BACK PANEL up to the vent. Press the lower vent edge up by 1 cm. Press the center BACK PANEL seam and vent towards the center back. Topstitch the center BACK PANEL seam at the upper end of the vent diagonally according to the marking, catching the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE.
7. Mark the hemline. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the front FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the front FACING seam allowance: in the fastening area – to the front FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching is placed at a distance of 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
8. Stitch and press open the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the jacket.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACING. Attach the lower COLLAR to the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR to the neckline edge of the back FACING.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem.
11. Attach the SLEEVES to the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Attach shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
12. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and attach the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the right front SLEEVE seam. Press the LINING. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and the back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them close to the seams.
13. Turn up the LINING SLEEVES and stitch them to the hem of the jacket SLEEVE, turn the excess LINING fabric down and press. Turn the jacket right side out. Straighten the LINING, pin the princess seams with the jacket's princess seams and carefully cut along the vent edges, shifting 1 cm towards the center seam. Before reaching 1 cm from the top of the vent, make diagonal cuts of 1 cm on both sides. Turn the cuts inwards and pin them to the vent edges. Insert your hand between the jacket and the LINING, grasp the pinned edges and pull them out one by one. Stitch the edges, fold the hem down. Straighten the vent edges. At the upper edge of the vent, turn the LINING corner under and sew it to the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket through the opening.