CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
- 2. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
- 3. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 4. Welt – 1 QTY
- 5. Flap – 4 QTY
- 6. Front FACING – 2 QTY
- 7. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
- 8. SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- 9. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 10. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
- 11. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- 1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 2. SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 4. Pocket bag – 4 QTY
- 5. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
- 6. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, flap, welt, GRAIN LINE stay, FRONT PANEL, hem allowance of SLEEVE and jacket, back neckline FACING
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, flap, welt, FRONT PANEL, SLEEVE hem, jacket hem, and back neckline FACING.
- Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center. Stitch FRONT PANEL darts, cut out dart depth, and cut open the pocket opening.
- Fold the welt right sides together in the middle and press. Stitch the welt corners, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt. Mark the position of the chest pocket. Stitch the welt to the FRONT PANEL, turn it up, and topstitch the side edges of the welt.
- Fold the flaps with the under-flaps right sides together and stitch. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap corners and turn right side out. Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch. Straighten the seams and press the COLLAR.
- Cut the FACINGS for the side welt pocket. Secure the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE stay or baste. Fold the pocket FACINGS in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket FACING parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark a guideline on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the width of the flap along its entire length. Mark guidelines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket FACINGS. Stitch the pocket bag to the flap. Stitch the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the FACINGS through the resulting opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed fold of the FACINGS meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag to the flap. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket FACING. Stitch the lower pocket bag into the seam of the lower FACING attachment, trim and stitch the pocket bag.
- Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Stitch the lower edges of the front FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front FACING: in the fastening area – to the front FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the back FACING.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
- On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
- Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and the back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, make a buttonhole, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on a button.
