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#5083
#5086

Collarless V-Neck Button Front Long Jacket

Pattern #5085

A semi-fitted, lined women's single-breasted collarless jacket-coat with a V-neck, front and back darts, slits at the side seams and a hem finished with shaped facings. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: medium-weight fabrics that hold a shape: suiting crepe, wool and wool-blend suiting, gabardine, light coating.

Tech. Description

Collarless V-Neck Button Front Long Jacket

A semi-fitted, lined women's single-breasted collarless jacket-coat with a V-neck, front and back darts, slits at the side seams and a hem finished with shaped facings.

When To Wear

  • In spring and autumn over dresses, trousers and straight skirts.
  • For work and town wear as a light outer layer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by vertical darts on the fronts and back.

Length: Below the hips, upper thigh in the drawing.

Neckline: Collarless V-neck, finished with the front facings and a back neck facing.

Front: Single-breasted, four buttons in the drawing, buttonholes on the right front.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased and shrunk cap.

Back: Cut in one piece, with no centre back seam.

Finishing: Side seams open into slits at the hem; the front and back hem facings are joined to the front facings and stitched on together with the front edges; shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining with darts and an ease pleat at the centre back, sewn to the facings, sleeve hems and slit edges.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Hem facings joined to the front facings, side slits with a lining, two-piece sleeves with a shrunk cap.

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight fabrics that hold a shape: suiting crepe, wool and wool-blend suiting, gabardine, light coating.

Additional Supplies

  • Lining fabric
  • Fusible interfacing (facings, sleeve hem allowances)
  • Buttons
  • Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Back Hem Facing – 1 piece
  • Front Hem Facing – 2 pieces
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
  • Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Back Hem Facing, Front Hem Facing. Additionally, fuse interfacing to the sleeve hem allowances.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Hem Facing, Front Hem Facings and Back Neckline Facing (press fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
  2. Stitch the darts on the Back and Fronts.
  3. Stitch the shoulder seams, and the side seams down to the slit marks.
  4. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
  5. Stitch the side seams of the Back Hem Facing and Front Hem Facings.
  6. Place the Center Front Facings, joined to the hem facings, on the Fronts right sides together and pin along the front edges and neckline; stitch, turn right side out and press.
  7. On the right side of the garment, roll the front edges and hem slightly to the inside so the seam doesn't show, and baste.
  8. Two-piece sleeve: fuse interfacing to the sleeve hem allowance. Stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve; press the seam allowances open and turn the sleeve right side out. Press the hem allowance to the inside.
  9. Setting the sleeve: run small gathering stitches along the sleeve cap between the marked notches and draw up the thread until the cap matches the corresponding length of the armhole. Dampen the fabric and shrink out the fullness with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, matching the notches, and stitch from the sleeve side.
  10. Sew in the shoulder pads.
  11. Lining: fold the ease pleat at the center back and secure it below the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline. Stitch the darts in the lining Back and Fronts and sew the lining pieces together. Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Carefully pin the lining around the slits, turn under its edges and slipstitch them to the slit edges. Hem the lining.
  12. Make buttonholes on the right front according to the markings and sew on buttons.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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