Princess Seams Single-Breasted Jacket

Fabric & Materials

YOU WILL NEED: Crepe fabric, 150 cm wide - to determine the length of material needed for cutting, lay out the paper pattern pieces on the fabric width and determine the required length; matching LINING fabric, 140 cm wide; FUSIBLE INTERFACING; 3 large and 6 small buttons; a scrap of synthetic padding, shoulder pads. Fabric recommendations: light jacket fabrics, such as crepe gabardine, flannel, velour, velvet, and boucle fabrics.

CUTTER'S MUST

• FRONT PANEL, center part - 2 QTY
• FRONT PANEL, side part - 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL, center part - 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL, side part - 2 QTY
• BACK YOKE - 1 QTY on fold
• Pocket flap - 4 QTY
• COLLAR stand - 2 QTY on fold
• COLLAR - 2 QTY on fold
• SLEEVE, upper part - 2 QTY
• SLEEVE, elbow part - 2 QTY
• Pocket FACING - 4 QTY
• Pocket bag - 2 QTY
• Front FACING - 2 QTY

From LINING fabric: Piece 1 minus the width of the front FACING, pieces 2-5, 12, and also pieces 9 and 10 minus the width of the integrated vent FACING and vent allowance. Interlining: for pieces 1-2, 5-7, 13, additionally press interlining to the hem allowances of the BACK PANEL and SLEEVE pieces.

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch darts on the center FRONT PANELs.
2. Sew the front princess SEAMs.
3. Welt pockets with a flap. Neatly stitch the flap of each pocket along the side and bottom edges and press. From the right side, stitch the flap and pocket FACING to the FRONT PANEL along the marked lines. Cut the FRONT PANEL lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the flap and FACING! Press the flap towards the opening, press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FACING attachment SEAM. Turn the FACING to the wrong side through the opening, folding over the SEAM ALLOWANCE, and topstitch exactly into the attachment SEAM. From the wrong side of the jacket, stitch the pocket bag made of LINING fabric to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FACING attachment SEAM, and the pocket bag made of main fabric to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap attachment SEAM. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and topstitch them to the pocket bag exactly from the ends of one stitching line to the ends of the other. Trim the pocket bag to even it out and stitch.
4. Sew the center back SEAM and princess SEAMs of the BACK PANEL.
5. Stitch the BACK YOKE to the BACK PANEL.
6. Sew the side and shoulder SEAMs.
7. Stitch the outer COLLAR stand piece to the under COLLAR, and the inner COLLAR stand piece to the upper COLLAR. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SEAM close to the stitching and press open. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour up to the control mark. COLLAR with lapels. Fold the front FACINGs with the FRONT PANELs right sides together and pin, easing slightly at the lapel corners. Stitch the front FACINGs to the lower edges of the FRONT PANELs, the front edges, and lapel edges up to the transverse mark, leaving a 3 cm opening in each lower SEAM at the inner edge of the front FACING for attaching the LINING. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching, leaving the front FACINGs lying on the FRONT PANELs for now. Insert the COLLAR on both sides between the FRONT PANEL and the front FACING, stitch the under COLLAR into the neckline of the FRONT PANEL from the control mark to the corner, clip the FRONT PANEL allowance at the corner. Stitch the remaining COLLAR edge into the neckline. Similarly, stitch the upper COLLAR into the necklines of the front FACINGs. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and under COLLAR attachment SEAMs and accurately pin the SEAMs. From the wrong side, stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES on the FRONT PANELs. From the ends of the front FACINGs, lay the inner COLLAR stand piece flat over the SEAM of the outer COLLAR stand piece attachment to the back neckline and topstitch from the right side of the jacket exactly into the SEAM. Hem the jacket.
8. Two-piece SLEEVES. Sew the SEAM of each SLEEVE. Hem the SLEEVE. Press the vent edges. From the wrong side of the SLEEVE, stitch the longitudinal and upper short transverse edges of the integrated vent FACING and vent allowance. Sew small buttons according to markings, catching the vent allowance. Set in the SLEEVES, easing at the SLEEVE caps. To the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE attachment SEAM in the SLEEVE cap area, sew a strip of synthetic padding approx. 4 cm wide. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Attach the LINING to the jacket. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch darts and sew SEAMs, leaving the shoulder edges of the BACK PANEL extending beyond the shoulder edges of the FRONT PANELs at the neckline. Set in the SLEEVES. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGs, hand-stitch at the top. Stitch the front FACINGs to the hem allowance of the jacket. Turn under the LINING and stitch it to the hem allowance of the jacket, first pinning a fold approx. 1 cm deep for ease, while curving the bottom of the LINING towards the front FACINGs. Similarly, stitch the SLEEVE LININGs to the hem allowances of the SLEEVEs, first pinning a fold for ease.
10. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes for the large buttons. Sew buttons to the left FRONT PANEL in corresponding positions to the buttonholes.