Single-Breasted Blazer with Flap Pockets
A fitted, lined women's single-breasted jacket with a notched collar, front darts, back princess seams, double-welt pockets with flaps and two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents.
When To Wear
- For office and business wear with trousers or a skirt as a suit.
- Over dresses and blouses in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by front darts and back princess seams.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with separate upper and under collar; the upper collar is joined to the facings and the front edges and collar are stitched in one seam.
Front: Single-breasted, four buttons in the drawing, buttonholes on the right front; separate front facings.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased and shrunk cap and a vent in the elbow seam, with three decorative buttons in the drawing.
Pockets: Double-welt pockets with lined flaps below the waist; a self-fabric underlay is topstitched onto the upper pocket bag.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams from the armholes.
Finishing: Shoulder pads; interfacing on the facings, under collar, flaps, back hem allowances and sleeve hems and vents.
Lining: Full bagged lining with darts and an ease pleat at the centre back, stitched to the facings and neckline, with an ease fold at the hem; turned through an opening of about 20 cm left in one sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Double-welt pockets with flaps, a notched collar, sleeve vents, a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight suiting with body: wool and wool-blend suiting, gabardine, crepe.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Buttons for the front and decorative buttons for the sleeve vents
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Underlay Piece - 2 pieces
- Flap - 4 pieces
- Center Back - 2 pieces
- Side Back - 2 pieces
- Pocket Frame - 4 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece
- Front - 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Lower Collar - 1 piece
- Upper Collar - 1 piece
- Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
- Back - 1 piece
- Front - 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the center front facings, back neckline facing, lower collar, and pocket flaps with interfacing. Additionally, iron fusible interfacing to the seam allowances for the hem of the back panels.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the center front facings, lower collar, pocket flaps, and back neckline facing with fusible interfacing (heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch the center back seam.
- Stitch the side backs to the center backs (back princess seams).
- On the fronts, stitch and press open the darts.
- Make framed welt pockets with two pocket frames and flaps: stitch the flaps together in pairs, right sides together, along the sides and lower edge; turn and edgestitch. On the wrong side of the front, iron a strip of interfacing about 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two pocket frames on the front, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch, making sure the long raw edges of the pocket frames align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the front along the line between the stitching, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to cut the pocket frames! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the pocket frames through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste, with the folded edges of the frames meeting in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch in the ditch of the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the frames precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Insert the raw edges of the flaps between the frames and stitch them in the ditch of the upper frame seam. Turn under the seam allowance of one long edge of the underlay piece and topstitch the underlay piece onto the upper pocket bag. From the inside, stitch the upper pocket bag to the flap seam allowances and the lower pocket bag to the seam allowances of the lower frame. Trim the pocket bags even and stitch them together.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings; attach the upper collar to the neckline of the facings; press open the seam allowances, clip curves.
- Place the upper collar, joined with the facings, onto the main garment, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and collar; turn right side out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper collar to the neckline. From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and collar, baste.
- Two-piece sleeve: reinforce the hem allowance of the sleeve and the vent with fusible interfacing. Stitch the upper sleeve and lower sleeve together, leaving the vents open in the elbow seams. Clip the seam allowances of the lower sleeves above the vent marking. Press open the seam allowances above the vent. Finish the sleeves with a hem. Press the edges of the vents on the upper sleeves to the wrong side. Pin the vents, and from the inside, topstitch the edges of the vents to each other.
- Setting in the sleeve: gather the sleeve cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated markings and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the sleeve to the garment, matching the control markings, and stitch, sewing from the sleeve side. Attach shoulder pads.
- Lining: fold an ease pleat and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment. Stitch the darts on the lining pieces. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the sleeves. Insert the lining into the main garment, right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the main garment with the lining along the center front facings and neckline. Form an ease fold at the bottom and stitch the lining to the hem allowance. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched sleeve section, then stitch this section closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front according to the markings and sew on the buttons; sew the decorative buttons onto the sleeve vents.
