Tailored Lapel Jacket with Patch Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• Upper SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
• Elbow SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
• COLLAR - 2 QTY on fold
• BACK neckline FACING - 1 QTY on fold
• Pocket - 2 QTY
• Front facing - 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric: FRONT PANEL - minus the width of the front facing; BACK PANEL - minus the width of the neckline FACING and with a pleat along the center line approx. 2 cm deep for ease; upper, elbow SLEEVE parts and pocket - minus the width of the FACING

Fabric & Materials

FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce FRONT PANEL details, front facings, BACK neckline FACING, COLLAR and pockets with FUSIBLE INTERFACING; on SLEEVE details - cut-on facings (cuffs). Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem allowance of the BACK PANEL details.

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch the center back seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
2. Stitch the darts. Press waist dart depths towards the center front/back line, bust dart depths - downwards.
3. Stitch the side and shoulder seams.
4. Attach the BACK neckline FACING to the front facings. Fold the front facings and FACING with the jacket right sides together and pin, ensuring the lapels of the front facings are slightly wider than the lapels of the FRONT PANELS.
5. Attach the front facings to the lower edges of the FRONT PANELS (stopping 5 cm before the ends of the front facings), to the edges of the fronts and lapels up to the transverse NOTCH (leave the front facings lying on the FRONT PANELS right side to right side for now).
6. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour, ensuring the upper COLLAR is slightly wider than the lower one.
7. Insert the COLLAR between the jacket and the front facings and FACING. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, the upper COLLAR - into the neckline of the front facings and FACING.
8. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower COLLAR attachment seams, at rounded sections - clip several times to the stitching line.
9. Turn the front facings and FACING to the wrong side. Press the jacket hem allowance to the wrong side, but do not stitch yet.
10. Pin the seams of the upper and lower COLLAR attachment. Turn the BACK neckline FACING up again and stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower COLLAR attachment seams close to the seams.
11. Attach the LINING of each pocket to the cut-on FACING of the pocket top, leaving an open section approx. 5 cm long in the middle of the seam. Turn the cut-on FACING of the pocket top and LINING to the right side of the pocket and attach to the side and lower edges. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching line. Turn the pocket out, sew the open section of the seam. Pin the pocket to the FRONT PANEL along the alignment lines and hand stitch with blind stitches.
12. Stitch the front SLEEVE seams. Turn the cut-on FACING of the bottom of each SLEEVE to the right side of the SLEEVE and attach along the edges of the slit up to the slit NOTCH. Turn the upper edge of the FACING down and pin.
13. Stitch the elbow SLEEVE seam up to the slit. Stitch the remaining open edges of the FACING. Turn the FACING to the wrong side. Press the lower edge of the SLEEVE and the edges of the slit.
14. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the SLEEVE caps. Under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE attachment seam in the SLEEVE cap area, stitch a strip of synthetic batting approx. 4 cm wide. Attach shoulder pads.
15. Form a pleat for ease on the BACK PANEL LINING and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment.
16. Stitch the darts on the LINING details. Stitch the LINING details similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm of the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES.
17. Insert the LINING into the main garment right sides facing, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Finish the main garment with the LINING along the front facings and neckline. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the SLEEVES. Form a pleat for ease at the bottom of the garment and attach the LINING to the hem allowance edge.
18. Turn the garment right side out through the remaining unstitched SLEEVE section, stitch this section closed. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes according to markings. Turn the lower edges of the SLEEVES up to the height of the slit = cuffs.