Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Reinforce the FRONT PANELS, facings, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, COLLAR, and pockets with FUSIBLE INTERFACING; for the SLEEVE pieces, use cut-on FACINGS (cuffs). Also, iron the FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the jacket hem.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
2. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
3. Center BACK PANEL - 1 QTY on fold
4. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
5. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
6. Elbow SLEEVE - 2 QTY
7. COLLAR - 2 QTY on fold
8. Front FACING - 2 QTY
9. Back neckline FACING - 1 QTY on fold
10. Pocket bag - 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL - minus the width of the front FACING, join paper pattern pieces of the FRONT PANEL;
2. BACK PANEL - minus the width of the neckline FACING and with a pleat along the center line approx. 2 cm deep for ease of fit;
3. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
4. Elbow SLEEVE - 2 QTY
5. Pocket bag - 2 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch the upper edge of the center part of each FRONT PANEL to the FRONT PANEL.
2. Stitch the dart, leaving the pocket opening open.
3. From the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, fold both pocket bags of each pocket with the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCES right sides together and pin, pinning the LINING pocket bag to the front pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE.
4. Stitch the pocket bag from the main material exactly along the marked seam line, and the LINING pocket bag - stopping 0.75 cm before the marked seam line.
5. Turn the pocket bags forward and stitch.
6. Sew the BACK PANEL relief seams, side seams, and shoulder seams.
7. On the right FRONT PANEL FACING, stitch along the four sides of the marking for each buttonhole at a distance of approx. 2 mm, placing a piece of suede on the wrong side. Cut the buttonholes.
8. Stitch the back neckline FACING to the front FACINGS.
9. Fold the front FACINGS and FACING with the jacket right sides together and pin to the edges of the fronts and lapels, ensuring that at the corners, the lapels of the front FACINGS are slightly wider than the lapels of the FRONT PANELS towards the top.
10. Stitch the front FACINGS to the edges of the fronts and lapels up to the transverse mark (leave the front FACINGS lying on the FRONT PANELS right side to right side for now).
11. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour, ensuring the upper COLLAR is slightly wider than the lower one.
12. Insert the COLLAR between the front FACINGS, FACING, and jacket.
13. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the necklines of the FRONT PANELS.
14. NOTCH the FRONT PANELS at the corners to the stitching. Stitch the longitudinal edge of the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline.
15. Stitch the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the front FACINGS and FACING, NOTCHING the front FACING SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners.
16. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper and lower COLLAR attachment seams to a width of 0.75 cm, spreading them to both sides of the seam.
17. Turn the front FACINGS to the wrong side.
18. Precisely pin the upper and lower COLLAR attachment seams in the BACK PANEL area.
19. Turn the FACING upwards and stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the attachment seams close to the seam.
20. Press the jacket hem SEAM ALLOWANCE to the wrong side, but do not stitch yet.
21. Sew the SLEEVE seams.
22. Turn the SLEEVE hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and press.
23. Set in the SLEEVES, easing them at the cap.
24. Under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE attachment seam in the cap area, sew a strip of synthetic padding approx. 4 cm wide.
25. Attach shoulder pads.
26. Create a pleat for ease of fit on the BACK PANEL LINING and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment.
27. Stitch the darts on the LINING pieces.
28. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES.
29. Insert the LINING into the main garment, right sides facing in, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams.
30. Finish the main garment with the LINING along the front FACINGS and neckline.
31. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the SLEEVES.
32. Create a tuck at the bottom of the garment and stitch the LINING to the hem edge.
33. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed.
34. Topstitch the right FRONT PANEL along the edge of the front according to the marking.