Collarless V-Neck Single Button Jacket
A women's fitted hip-length jacket with a collarless V-neck, a single-button front, slanted framed pockets and darts on the front and back. One-piece set-in sleeves; fully lined.
When To Wear
- Over a blouse or a fine knit top with trousers or a skirt for office wear.
- In spring and autumn over a dress.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by long vertical darts on the fronts and back.
Length: Hip length, with rounded front corners at the hem.
Neckline: Collarless V-neck, finished with the front facings and a back neckline facing.
Closure: Single-breasted, one button and buttonhole at the base of the V.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves, eased into the armholes.
Pockets: Slanted framed (double-welt) pockets on the fronts, each frame cut from one piece.
Back: Centre back seam and vertical darts.
Finishing: The drawing shows topstitching along the neckline, front edges and hem. Shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with darts, sewn to the sleeve hems, front facings and back neckline facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Framed welt pockets, a faced V-neck front without a collar, set-in sleeves and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven fabrics with body: wool suiting, gabardine, crepe, wool blends.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (also for the pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, 4 cm strips over the pocket markings)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Underlay Piece (pocket welt facing) - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag - 2 pieces (lining only)
Fusible interfacing: reinforce the center front facings, back neckline facing and fronts; also press a strip of interfacing about 4 cm wide over each pocket marking.
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the darts on the back and fronts; sew the center back seam.
- Make the double-welt pockets on the fronts: on the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing about 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place the underlay piece (welt facing) on the front right sides together, pin along the pocket opening and stitch around the pocket marking. Cut the front between the stitching lines down the middle, and diagonally into the corners at the ends. Press the seam allowances open. Turn the underlay piece through the opening to the wrong side so that it forms a neat frame, and baste. On the wrong side, place the lower pocket bag on the lower welt, pointing upwards, and from the right side stitch in the ditch of the lower welt seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag down. Place the other end of the pocket bag over the pocket on the wrong side and, from the right side, stitch in the ditch of the upper welt seam. Fold the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them to the welts, exactly from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Sew the open edges of the pocket bag.
- Sew the shoulder and side seams.
- Sew the shoulder seams of the center front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Place the center front facings on the fronts right sides together, pin along the front and neckline edges and stitch the facings to the fronts.
- Hem the jacket.
- Sew the sleeve seams. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Sew the darts on the back and front lining, then sew the lining pieces together. Sew the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Hem the lining.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front; sew a button on the left front.
