Women's Fitted Blazer
A women's fitted hip-length blazer with princess seams from the armholes, a horizontal bust dart, a notched collar with a neck dart under the lapel, and in-seam pockets in the front princess seams. Three-button front, two-piece sleeves, fully lined.
When To Wear
- With trousers or a skirt for office wear.
- Over a blouse or a fine knit in autumn and spring.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and a horizontal bust dart on the front.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar. The upper collar is sewn into the facing neckline up to the gorge; a vertical neck dart under the lapel continues the collar seam.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the front princess seams, with the seam allowance understitched to the pocket bag.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Lining: Full lining sewn to the facings, the jacket hem and the sleeve hems, held with 7 bar tacks over the seams at the hem; the jacket is turned through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar with a neck dart, two-piece sleeves with sleeve heads, extensive fusing and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics with synthetic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (also for the pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, neckline facing, fronts, side fronts, upper back with the armhole area, back and side back hems, side back armholes, sleeve hems, collar)
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back Lining – 1 piece
- Side Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Side Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: center front facings, neckline facing, side fronts, fronts, upper back with the armhole area, back hem, side back armholes, side back hem, hems of the upper and lower sleeves, collar.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the center front facings, neckline facing, side fronts, fronts, upper back with the armhole area, back hem, side back armholes, side back hem, hems of the upper and lower sleeves, and the collar.
- Sew the horizontal bust dart.
- Place a pocket bag right side down on the right side of the side front and of the front, matching the notches, and stitch. Turn the seam allowance towards the pocket bag and understitch it to the bag.
- Sew the front princess seams together with the pocket bags. Clip the princess seams and press them open, pressing the pocket towards the front.
- Stitch the center front facings to the fronts along the front edges, pivoting twice (once at the top, once at the bottom). Trim, and turn out the top and bottom corners.
- Sew the neckline facing to the center front facings and press open the shoulder seams of the facings.
- Sew the center back seam and the back princess seams. Press them open.
- Sew the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press them open.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Trim and turn out the collar corners.
- Sew the upper collar into the neckline of the facings up to the notch points (gorge). Press the gorge seams open.
- Sew the vertical neck dart, continuing the collar seam.
- Sew the lower collar into the jacket neckline. Press open the vertical darts and the collar seam.
- Tack the collar seam allowances together.
- Sew and press open the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve.
- Sew and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Sew the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the right sleeve lining. Press the lining.
- Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining to the center front facings and the neckline facing, to the jacket hem (matching the lining seams to the jacket seams) and to the sleeve hems. Make 7 bar tacks along the hem over the seams.
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front; sew buttons on the left front.
