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Minervainervabeta
#5009
#5011

Decorative Shawl Collar Jacket

Pattern #5010

A women's fitted hip-length jacket with princess seams from the armholes, a shawl collar with the upper collar in contrast fabric, and off-set welt pockets with contrast welts. Single-button front, two-piece set-in sleeves, fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: main fabric: medium-weight woven suiting, such as wool, wool blends or gabardine.

Tech. Description

Decorative Shawl Collar Jacket

A women's fitted hip-length jacket with princess seams from the armholes, a shawl collar with the upper collar in contrast fabric, and off-set welt pockets with contrast welts. Single-button front, two-piece set-in sleeves, fully lined.

When To Wear

  • With trousers or a skirt for office wear.
  • Over a blouse or a dress for daytime events in autumn and spring.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Shawl collar. The upper collar has a centre back seam and is cut from contrast fabric; the under collar is set into the jacket neckline, the upper collar into the facing neckline.

Closure: Single-breasted with one button at the base of the collar.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, hemmed and eased into the armholes.

Pockets: Off-set welt pockets on the side fronts: the welt, in contrast fabric, is folded, sewn to the front along the marking, turned up and topstitched.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: The facings are sewn to the hem allowance; the drawing shows topstitching along the collar, front edges and hems. Shoulder pads.

Lining: Full lining, sewn to the sleeve hems, front facings and back neckline facing.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A shawl collar stitched together with the front edges, off-set welt pockets, two-piece sleeves and a full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Main fabric: medium-weight woven suiting, such as wool, wool blends or gabardine. Contrast fabric for the upper collar and welts: a smooth woven fabric of similar weight.

Additional Supplies

  • Contrast fabric (upper collar, welts)
  • Lining fabric
  • Fusible interfacing (welts, back neckline facing, front facings, upper collar)
  • 1 button
  • Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Center Back - 2 pieces
  • Side Back - 2 pieces
  • Side Front - 2 pieces
  • Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
  • Center Front - 2 pieces
  • Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
  • Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • From contrast fabric:
  • Off-Set Welt - 2 pieces
  • Upper Collar - 1 piece on fold
  • From fusible interfacing:
  • Off-Set Welt - 2 pieces
  • Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
  • Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
  • Upper Collar - 2 pieces
  • From lining fabric:
  • Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Center Front - 2 pieces
  • Center Back - 2 pieces
  • Side Back - 2 pieces
  • Side Front - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. Sew the center back seam and the back princess seams, and the front princess seams.
  2. Fold the off-set welt along the fold line and stitch the short ends; turn out. Sew the lower edges of the welt to the front along the markings, fold the welt up, press and topstitch it to the front.
  3. Sew the shoulder and side seams.
  4. Sew the shoulder seams of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Clip the seam allowances. Sew the under collar into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching and press open.
  5. Place the center front facings on the fronts right sides together and pin along the front edges; pin the edges of the upper and under collar together. Stitch along the front edges and collar, then turn out. Hem the jacket. Sew the center front facings to the hem allowance.
  6. Sew the sleeve seams. Hem the sleeves and set them into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
  7. Attach the shoulder pads.
  8. Sew the lining pieces together. Sew the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Hem the lining.
  9. Make buttonholes on the right front; sew buttons on the left front.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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