Fitted Jacket with Contrast Trim

Name: Fitted Jacket with Contrast Trim
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5009
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5009

A women's fitted hip-length jacket with princess seams front and back, a wide collar cut in one with the front facings and edged with a contrast band, and welts in contrast fabric set into the front seams. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: main fabric: medium-weight jacket fabrics that hold their shape, such as wool suiting, wool blends or tweed.

Tech. Description

Fitted Jacket with Contrast Trim

When To Wear

For the office, over a blouse with a skirt or trousers.
In spring and autumn as a light outer layer over a dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the fronts and back.

Length: Hip length, with rounded lower front corners.

Collar: Wide collar with square ends at the shoulders and a V opening at the front. The upper collar is cut in one with the front facings and has a centre back seam; a contrast collar trimming, cut on the fold, is topstitched onto it.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, with three small buttons at the cuff.

Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons.

Front: Centre front panels and side fronts divided horizontally into upper and lower pieces.

Pockets: Folded off-set welts in contrast fabric, caught in the seam between the upper and lower side fronts and in the princess seam at their side ends.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; back neck facing cut on the fold.

Finishing: Front edges and collar stitched with the facings and turned; facings stitched to the hem allowance.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, welts caught in a cross seam, an upper collar cut in one with the facings, a contrast trim applied to the collar, two-piece sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Main fabric: medium-weight jacket fabrics that hold their shape, such as wool suiting, wool blends or tweed. Contrast fabric for the collar trimming and welts: a firm fabric in a different colour or texture.

Additional Supplies

Contrast fabric (collar trimming, welts)
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, welts)
9 buttons (3 for the front, 3 for each sleeve)

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Side Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece (on fold)
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing (cut in one with the upper collar) – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From contrast fabric:
- Collar Trimming – 1 piece (on fold)
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Off-Set Welt.

Sewing Instructions

Sew the center back seam and the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back).
Fold each Off-Set Welt along the fold line. Baste the raw lower edges of the welt to the upper edge of the Lower Side Front. Stitch the Upper Side Front to the Lower Side Front, catching the welt in the seam. Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to the side fronts), catching the side end of the welt.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
Topstitch the Collar Trimming onto the upper collar, which is cut in one with the Center Front Facings. Sew the center back seam of the upper collar. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Clip the seam allowances. Attach the under collar to the jacket neckline and the upper collar to the facing neckline. Trim the seam allowances of the attachment seams close to the stitching and press open.
Place the Center Front Facings on the fronts right sides together and pin along the front edges; pin the edges of the upper and under collar together. Stitch along the front edges and collar, then turn and press. Hem the jacket. Stitch the facings to the hem allowance.