Apache Collar Jacket

Name: Apache Collar Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5008
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5008

A women's fitted hip-length jacket with princess seams front and back, a wide collar whose upper layer is cut in one with the front facings, and welts set into a horizontal seam on the side fronts. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: medium-weight jacket fabrics that hold their shape, such as wool suiting, wool blends, gabardine or tweed.

Tech. Description

Apache Collar Jacket

A women's fitted hip-length jacket with princess seams front and back, a wide collar whose upper layer is cut in one with the front facings, and welts set into a horizontal seam on the side fronts.

When To Wear

For the office, over a blouse or fine knit with a skirt or trousers.
In spring and autumn as a light outer layer over a dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the fronts and back.

Length: Hip length, with rounded lower front corners.

Collar: Wide collar with square ends at the shoulders and a V opening at the front. The upper collar is cut in one with the front facings and has a centre back seam; the under collar is sewn into the jacket neckline.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves, eased into the armhole at the cap.

Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes on the right front.

Front: Centre front panels and side fronts divided horizontally into upper and lower pieces.

Pockets: Folded off-set welts caught in the seam between the upper and lower side fronts and in the princess seam at their side ends.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; back neck facing cut on the fold.

Finishing: Front edges and collar stitched with the facings and turned; facings stitched to the hem allowance; shoulder pads.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, welts caught in a cross seam, an upper collar cut in one with the facings, two-piece sleeves with an eased cap, buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight jacket fabrics that hold their shape, such as wool suiting, wool blends, gabardine or tweed.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, welts)
3 buttons
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

Off-Set Welt - 2 pieces
Center Back - 2 pieces
Side Back - 2 pieces
Upper Side Front - 2 pieces
Lower Side Front - 2 pieces
Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
Center Front - 2 pieces
Center Front Facing (cut in one with the upper collar) - 2 pieces
Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces

Fusible interfacing: reinforce the center front facings, back neckline facing and off-set welts.

Sewing Instructions

Sew the center back seam and the back princess seams.
Fold the off-set welt along the fold line. Baste the lower edges of the welt to the upper edge of the lower side front. Sew the lower side front to the upper side front, catching the welt in the seam. Sew the front princess seams, catching the side edge of the welt.
Sew the shoulder and side seams.
Sew the center back seam of the upper collar cut in one with the center front facings. Sew the shoulder seams of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Clip the seam allowances. Sew the under collar into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the back neckline facing. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching and press open.
Place the center front facings on the fronts right sides together and pin along the front edges; pin the edges of the upper and under collar together. Stitch along the front edges and collar, then turn out. Hem the jacket. Sew the center front facings to the hem allowance.
Sew the sleeve seams. Hem the sleeves and set them into the armholes, easing the sleeve cap.
Make buttonholes on the right front; sew buttons on the left front.
Attach shoulder pads.