Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: artificial or genuine leather. YOU ALSO NEED: lining fabric; separating zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve hem – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Central upper back part – 2 pieces
- Central lower back part – 2 pieces
- Side upper back part – 2 pieces
- Side lower back part – 2 pieces
- Central upper front part – 2 pieces
- Central lower front part – 2 pieces
- Side upper front part – 2 pieces
- Side lower front part – 2 pieces
- Yoke — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part_1 – 2 pieces
- Sleeve insert — 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part_2 – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part_1 – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part_2 — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Central back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Stitch the contoured edges of the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances towards the center and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the center edges of the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances open and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the contoured edges of the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances towards the center and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowance onto the yoke and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowance onto the yoke and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch side seams, press seam allowances open.
- Attach the sleeve insert to upper sleeve part_1, press seam allowances onto the insert and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach upper sleeve part_2 to the sleeve insert, press seam allowances onto the insert and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch lower sleeve part_1 and lower sleeve part_2, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press seam allowance onto the upper sleeve part and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes.
- Attach the separating zipper to the front edges (teeth facing away from the center).
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline of the main garment, clip and press seam allowances open.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Attach the inner collar stand to the neckline, clip and press seam allowances open. Place the front facing on the right side of the front part, right side down, and stitch the lower corner of the front edge, the front edge, and the collar stand. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn out and press. Secure the collar stand attachment allowances together.
- Stitch lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach sleeves. Attach lining to front facings and back neckline facing, and to the bottom edge. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Attach lining to the sleeve hem through the technical opening, press seam allowances. Close the opening.
- Topstitch along the contour of the collar stand. Add an additional topstitch along the front edge 0.5 cm from the zipper.
