Fitted Tailored Jacket with Curved Hem
A fitted women's jacket with princess seams front and back, a wide collar cut in one with the fronts, a four-button front, flap pockets and a hem rounded off at the front edges. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- At the office with matching trousers or a pencil skirt.
- In autumn and spring over a blouse or a fine knit top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped at the waist by princess seams.
Length: Hip length; the front edges curve away into a rounded hem.
Collar: Wide collar cut in one with the front, joined by a centre back collar seam and set into the back neckline; it stands away from the neck above a V opening.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads.
Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons and buttonholes.
Pockets: Jetted pockets with flaps on the side fronts.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams from the armholes.
Finishing: Front edges, neckline and hem faced; separate front and back hem facings; interfacing on the centre fronts, facings, upper back at the armholes and sleeve hems.
Lining: Full lining cut in the jacket panels, turned through an opening in the right sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A cut-on collar turned at a clipped neckline corner, jetted flap pockets, faced curved hem, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics of natural or synthetic fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for sleeve bottom edge 3 cm, all other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket frame – 2 pieces
- Front hem facing – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Lining pieces for front and back are cut deducting the width of the neckline facing, hem facing, and front facing.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Back hem facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 2 pieces
- Front hem facing – 2 pieces
Also interfaced: upper of center back with armhole section, armhole of side back, hem allowance for sleeve bottom edge.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front.
- Place flap pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, clip corners, turn right side out and press. Mark pocket placement with parallel lines. Fold pocket frame in half wrong side in and press. Mark auxiliary lines on pocket frame and flap for stitching parallel to the fold. Stitch large pocket bag to flap. Stitch pocket frame and flap to front. Cut front along the marked line on the pattern. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frame and flap to the wrong side through the opening, straighten edges. Secure pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch small pocket bag into the pocket frame attachment seam. Stitch pocket bag edges.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press open shoulder and side seams. Stitch the center seam of the collar. Press open the allowance. Stitch the one-piece collar into the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press open allowances.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes matching notches. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch shoulder edges of facing and front facings. Press open allowances. Stitch the center seam of the collar. Press open the allowance. Stitch the one-piece collar into the neckline facing, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press open allowances. Stitch the front hem facing to the bottom of the front facing. Press open allowances. Stitch the center seam of the back hem facing, press open allowances. Stitch the side edges of the hem facings. Press open allowances.
- Place front facing onto the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the bottom, front edge, and neckline. Turn front facings and facings to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch lining pieces, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Press the lining.
- Stitch lining to front facings, back neckline facing, hem facing, matching lining seams with garment seams, to the bottom of the garment sleeve.
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the technical opening in the sleeve.
- Work buttonholes and sew on buttons.
