Hooded Drawstring Waist Jacket
A hip-length women's jacket with a three-piece hood, a separating zipper under a buttoned placket, a drawstring waist and patch pockets with an inverted pleat and flaps. Fully lined, including the hood.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light outer layer, over sweaters and shirts.
- With jeans or trousers for walks and travel; the hood and drawstring adjust to the weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose through the body, gathered at the waist by a drawstring.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Hood made of two side pieces and a centre panel, with a facing along the front edge; the zipper runs up into the hood.
Sleeves: Dropped shoulder, three-quarter length, finished with a cuff folded in half and a buttoned tab on the cuff.
Closure: Separating zipper at the centre front, covered by a topstitched placket with two buttons at the neck; a narrow placket on the left side.
Pockets: Two patch pockets with an inverted pleat, each with a flap topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no centre back seam.
Waist: Inside casing with a cord that exits through two eyelets on the fronts and ends in cord stoppers.
Finishing: Hem topstitched 2 cm from the edge; tabs topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge.
Lining: Lining for the body, sleeves and hood, attached to the front and back neck facings.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Separating zipper with a covering placket, a lined three-piece hood, flapped patch pockets, a drawstring casing with eyelets and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, front facings, back neck facing, flaps, hood facing, cuffs)
- Separating zipper
- Decorative cord
- 2 eyelets
- 2 cord stoppers
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and the upper edge of the pocket – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood piece – 1 piece
- Hood facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Drawstring casing – 1 piece on fold
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Hood facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center hood piece – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Form and secure the inverted pleat on the pocket piece. Fold the upper pocket allowance to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by 2 cm, and topstitch. Press the side and bottom edges of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the front according to the markings and topstitch. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the flaps right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along the flap 0.5 cm from the edge. Overlock the upper edge. Attach the flaps to the front (corner pointing towards the neckline), fold down, and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Attach the sleeves to the garment, press allowances towards the sleeve. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seams, press allowances towards the back.
- Punch eyelets on the front according to the markings. Press the allowances of the drawstring casing around the perimeter to the wrong side. Place the drawstring casing wrong side up on the wrong side of the garment and topstitch.
- Attach the side hood pieces to the center hood piece, press allowances towards the center piece. Attach the facing to the hood, press allowances towards the facing.
- Set the hood into the neckline, press allowances open.
- Fold the left front placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short edges. Turn right side out, shape, and press. Place the left side of the zipper with the edge of the front and hood (teeth pointing away from the edge), place the left placket, and stitch. Place the right side of the zipper with the edge of the front and hood (teeth pointing away from the edge) and stitch.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the hood pieces and center piece from the lining fabric, press allowances towards the center piece. Attach the facing to the hood lining, press allowances towards the facing. Set the hood into the neckline of the facings, press allowances open.
- Place the facings with the hood right sides together with the main garment and stitch the edge of the front and hood. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure the hood insertion allowances together.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Fold the tab right sides together and stitch the long side and corner. Trim allowances, turn the tab right side out, press, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Attach the tab to the inner of the cuff according to the markings.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the facings and front facings, to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve through the technical opening, press allowances. Close the opening. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the garment 2 cm from the edge.
- Fold the right front placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the upper and lower edges. Overlock the inner edge. Place the placket on the front (edge pointing away from the front edge) and topstitch along the marked line. Fold back the placket, covering the zipper, and topstitch along the attachment seam.
- Make buttonholes on the right placket and tabs. Sew on buttons accordingly. Thread the cord through the drawstring casing, secure the cord stoppers.
