Jacket Asymmetrical Zipper High Collar
A fitted, fully lined women's jacket of short length with an off-centre separating zip running diagonally from a high wide collar, contrast plackets along the zip and two slanted double-welt pockets with zips.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a knit top, shirt or thin jumper.
- With jeans, straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by panel seams front and back and a bust dart on the right front.
Length: Short, ending just below the waist.
Collar: High, wide collar cut as an under and upper collar, each of two pieces; the upper collar is set into the neckline of the facings. Collar and front edges topstitched 0.5–0.7 cm from the edge.
Closure: Asymmetrical front with a separating zip: the left half is set into the panel seam between the left centre front and left side front, the right half into the edge of the right front. The zip is framed by plackets in trim fabric on the outside and on the facing.
Front: Right front in one piece with a bust dart; left front cut in two parts; both joined to side panels.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve).
Pockets: Two slanted double-welt pockets with zips, the pocket frames in trim fabric.
Back: Centre back seam and curved panel seams to the side panels.
Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A separating zip set into a panel seam and a front edge, zipped double-welt pockets, a two-piece collar, two-piece sleeves and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin coating fabrics from natural or blended fibres; trim fabric in a matching or contrasting colour for the plackets and pocket frames.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Trim fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, collar, facings, plackets, pocket frames)
- 1 separating zip
- 2 zips (pockets)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Center Front – 1 piece
- Left Side Front – 1 piece
- Collar – 4 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From trim fabric:
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Pocket Frame – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Center Front – 1 piece
- Left Side Front – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Pocket Frame – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the back panel seams (Back to Side), press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch the bust dart on the right front, press depth upwards. Stitch the panel seam between the Left Center Front and Left Side Front, inserting the left half of the separating zipper between the pieces. Stitch the fronts to the Side pieces, press allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Reinforce the pocket opening with a straight-grain strip of fusible interfacing. Fold the Pocket Frame pieces in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on each Pocket Frame parallel to the fold for attachment. Mark auxiliary lines on the front parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the Pocket Frames. Stitch the Pocket Frames to the front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the Pocket Frame stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the Pocket Frames to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges and adjust them so that the pressed folds meet edge to edge. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the zipper under the pocket opening and stitch it into the Pocket Frame seams. Stitch the Bigger Pocket Bag to the upper Pocket Frame and the Smaller Pocket Bag to the lower Pocket Frame, trim and stitch the pocket bags together.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the Collar pieces together in pairs, press allowances open. Stitch the under collar to the garment neckline, clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the outer Placket to the front, press allowances towards the Placket.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press allowances open. Stitch the upper collar to the neckline of the facings, clip and press allowances open. Stitch the inner Placket to the Center Front Facing, press allowances towards the Placket.
- Baste the right half of the zipper to the front edge of the Right Front, teeth facing away from the edge. Place the Center Front Facings on the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, collar edge, and lower corner of the front. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the piece right side out. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve. Press the lining allowances.
- Stitch the lining to the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten the seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
- Mark and press up the garment hem. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems and the garment hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve lining closed.
