Hooded Zip Front Jacket
A women's hip-length jacket in firm knit fabric with a separating zip front, a stand collar and a buttoned-on hood. Princess seams front and back, side panels, patch pockets with zipped openings, and a full lining.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and autumn, over T-shirts and jumpers.
- With jeans, trousers or leggings for walks and travel; the hood buttons off when not needed.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped by bust darts and princess seams on the front and back, with separate side panels; slightly flared towards the hem.
Length: Below the hip.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, interfaced. The lined hood, with a centre seam and a facing at the front edge, has buttonholes along its neck edge and buttons onto the collar stand seam.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with folded cuffs.
Closure: Separating zip, set between the front and the interfaced front facing.
Pockets: Lined patch pockets on the lower fronts. Each has a slanted zipped opening, and its lower part is stitched across to form a flap fastened with two buttons.
Back: Back cut on the fold, with princess seams.
Finishing: Hem finished with an interfaced facing and a topstitching line.
Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, attached to the facings and to the inside of the cuffs, turned through an opening in the left side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Zips set into pocket openings, a separating zip set with facings, a bagged lining and a lined, detachable hood.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm, low-stretch knit fabric of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, hem facing, collar stand, hood facing, cuffs, pockets)
- Separating zip for the front
- 2 zips for the pockets
- 4 buttons for the pockets
- 10 flat buttons for the hood
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Side – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Bottom facing – 1 piece on fold
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Hood facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back lining – 1 piece on fold
- Side lining – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Hood lining – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Bottom facing – 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Hood facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch bust darts, press seam allowances upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement on the front. Mark the zipper placement on the pocket. Cut the opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking, make diagonal cuts. Turn the seam allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper. Fold the pocket with the lining right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening for turning. Clip seam allowances, trim corners. Turn the pocket right side out, straighten, press. Topstitch the pocket to the front along the side edges and horizontal line, forming a flap from the lower of the pocket.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances open. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances open. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, clip and press seam allowances open.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Stitch the inner collar stand to the neckline, clip and press seam allowances open. Stitch the bottom facing to the front facings, press seam allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch all around along the front edge, inserting the zipper, bottom edge, and collar stand edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim corners. Turn the front facing with facings to the wrong side, straighten, press.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press seam allowances towards the cuff.
- On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the left side seam.
- Stitch the lining to the front facings and facings. Stitch the lining to the inner side of the cuff. Turn the garment right side out through the opening. Secure the seam allowances of the collar stands to the necklines and the cuff attachment seam allowances. Close the opening.
- Topstitch along the bottom edge. Sew buttons onto the pocket.
- Stitch the hood seam, press seam allowances open. Stitch the hood facing to the hood, press seam allowances towards the facing. Process the hood lining similarly. Fold the hood with the lining right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim corners. Turn the hood right side out, straighten, press. Close the opening.
- Make buttonholes on the hood neckline. Sew buttons onto the collar stand attachment seam.
