Hooded Rain Jacket With Drawstring
A women's knee-length lined rain jacket with a three-panel hood, front and back yokes, a separating zipper with a front placket, an inner drawstring casing at the waist and flap pockets. A back vent at the centre back seam.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn rain: the hood and waist both close with drawstrings.
- Over jumpers and trousers for walks and daily commuting.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, gathered in at the waist by a drawstring.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: No collar: a lined hood of a centre panel and two side panels, with a topstitched drawstring channel along the face edge and two eyelets at the front neck.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams. A tab, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, is caught in the elbow seam near the hem and held with a button.
Closure: Separating zipper set between the fronts and the facings, with a separate topstitched front placket.
Pockets: Slanted flap pockets with a cut opening; flaps topstitched 0.5 cm, bags of lining fabric.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam, a pleat below the yoke secured by topstitching, and a vent at the hem.
Waist: Inner casing strip with a cord coming out through two eyelets at the front.
Finishing: Hems of the jacket and sleeves topstitched 2 cm from the edge; vent edge topstitched 0.2 cm.
Lining: Full lining of the body, sleeves and hood, bagged out through an opening in the left side seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Flap pockets with a cut opening, a separating zipper set between the jacket and the facings, a lined hood, a lined vent, eyelets and two drawstring channels.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, hood facing, flaps, front placket, tabs; armhole areas, pocket openings and hems)
- Separating zipper
- 4 eyelets
- Decorative cord
- 2 buttons
- 4 cord stoppers
- 4 cord ends
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment - 4.0 cm. Hem allowance for the sleeve - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Casing – 1 piece
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
- Front Placket – 1 piece
- Tab – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Hood Lining – 1 piece
- Hood Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Front Placket – 1 piece
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
Also interface the armhole areas of the back and front, the pocket openings, and the hems of the jacket and sleeves.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam down to the vent mark. Press the seam open. Attach the Back Yoke to the back. Fold the pleat and secure it with a stitch on the right side of the back yoke. Attach the Front Yokes to the fronts in the same way.
- Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Topstitch the Underlay Piece onto the Big Pocket Bag, folding its long edge inwards. Baste the flap onto the underlay and pocket bag. Attach the flap to the front along the upper pocket marking line. Attach the Smaller Pocket Bag to the front along the lower pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overlock the pocket bag edges. Direct the flap downwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press seams open. Press the seam allowances around the Casing to the wrong side, place it on the wrong side of the garment according to the markings, and topstitch along the two long sides at 0.1 cm. Punch eyelets according to the markings.
- Fold each Tab lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long side and corner. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the edge. Place the tab on the Upper Sleeve and baste it along the elbow edge. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeve into the armhole.
- Stitch the Center Hood to the Hood pieces. Press the seam allowances towards the center piece and topstitch 0.5 cm. Punch eyelets on the hood. Set the hood into the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings, press seams open. Stitch the Center Hood Lining to the Hood Lining pieces, press seam allowances towards the center piece. Attach the hood lining to the Hood Facing, press seam allowances towards the facing. Set the hood lining into the neckline of the facings.
- Place the main garment and the facings right sides together, insert the zipper between the pieces, and stitch the edge of the front opening and the outer edge of the hood. Turn the front facings to the wrong side. Secure the hood attachment allowances together. Topstitch along the hood, according to the markings, forming a casing.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Set in the lining sleeves. Attach the lining to the facings and to the bottom of the jacket, finishing the back vent. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening. Topstitch along the back vent 0.2 cm from the edge to secure.
- Topstitch the bottom of the garment and sleeve hems at 2 cm from the edge.
- Fold the Front Placket lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Turn the placket right side out, press. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the short and outer sides. Place the placket on the front, according to the mark. The outer side is directed towards the side seam. Topstitch the placket to the front. Fold the placket towards the center front and topstitch 1 cm from the fold.
- Thread cords through the casings and eyelets. Thread the cord stoppers onto the cords and attach the cord ends.
- Sew buttons onto the sleeves, securing the tabs.
