Tailored Double-Breasted Coat with Belt
Introducing a chic sleeveless dress pattern featuring a tailored, double-breasted silhouette with trench-inspired details and a defined waist.
When To Wear
This sophisticated garment is perfect for adding a polished touch to your wardrobe, making it an excellent choice for:
- Professional Settings: Achieve a sharp, commanding look suitable for the office or business engagements.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: a versatile and stylish option for elevated daytime events or evening cocktails.
- Transitional Weather Layering: Wear as a statement dress or a light outer layer during milder seasons.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted silhouette with a straight skirt, creating a sleek and refined profile.
Neckline & Collar: Features a sharp notched lapel collar and V-neck opening for a sophisticated aesthetic.
Closure: Double-breasted front with two rows of buttons, creating a classic and secure fastening.
Sleeves: Sleeveless design, enhanced with structured shoulder epaulets (shoulder tabs) for a military-inspired detail.
Pockets: Functional patch pockets with pointed flaps are positioned at the hips, adding practical elegance.
Back: Clean-lined back with a central seam, maintaining the garment's streamlined appearance.
Waist: Cinching at the waist with a wide, removable belt featuring a prominent square buckle.
Length: a stylish knee-length cut, offering a balance of formality and modern appeal.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires experienced sewing skills including precise tailoring for lapels, collar construction, setting epaulets, creating flap pockets, and handling double-breasted closures.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics with good structure and drape for a polished finish:
- Thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 10 buttons
- 1 inner button
- 1 decorative buckle, 8 cm wide
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center - 2 qty
- Back side - 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Front center right – 1 qty
- Front center left - 1 qty
- Underlap right – 1 qty
- Underlap left – 1 qty
- Collar – 2 qty
- Lapel - 4 qty
- Flap - 4 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Shoulder tab – 2 qty
- Belt – 1 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- Underlap right – 1 qty
- Underlap left – 1 qty
- Collar – 1 qty
- Lapel - 2 qty
- Flap - 2 qty
- Back neckline facing — 1 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Fold the shoulder tab lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and one short side. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the piece right side out, smooth, and press. Overlock the open edge.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch the outer sides. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the flap right side out. Overlock the upper edge.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and the outer edge. Clip seam allowances near notches, trim corners, turn the collar right side out, smooth, and press. Fold the lapel pieces right sides together, insert the collar between them, and stitch the gorge line and the outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the lapel right side out, press.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center seam and overlock. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side and overlock.
- Stitch the right front princess seam, press seam allowances open, overlock. Stitch the left front princess seam, inserting the left of the zipper, press seam allowances open, guiding the zipper tape towards the side seam, overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Attach the collar with lapels to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the underlaps and the back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Fold the underlaps with the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges and neckline, inserting the right of the zipper between the right underlap and the front. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the garment right side out, smooth, and press.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Fold the trim strip with the armhole edge on the right side, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the trim strip to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Place a bar tack near the armhole.
- Place the shoulder tab under the shoulder seam, centering it, and topstitch into the trim strip stitching line. Fold the shoulder tab onto the shoulder and secure with a button.
- Mark the flap placement. Attach the flap to the garment, turn down, and topstitch.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.
- Sew buttons on the right front according to markings. On the left front, overlock a buttonhole and sew an inner button accordingly.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Overlock the short side. Topstitch around the perimeter at 0.7 cm. Insert and secure the buckle on the overlock side of the belt.
