Loose Raglan Sleeve Stand Collar Jacket
A hip-length women's jacket in a loose cut, with two-piece raglan sleeves, a stand collar fastened by a decorative hook clasp, and oval framed pockets on the fronts. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light outer layer over blouses, knitwear and dresses.
- With trousers or straight skirts; the hip length sits over the top of either.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Loose, slightly widening towards the hem, with darts on the fronts pressed upwards.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Stand collar cut in two layers: the upper collar is sewn into the jacket neckline, the under collar into the facings, and the collar edge is stitched together with the front edges.
Sleeves: Long raglan sleeves cut in two halves, front and back, joined by a seam over the shoulder; the underarm and side seams are stitched in one pass.
Front: Edge-to-edge fronts with cut facings and no buttons; a decorative hook clasp closes the collar, held by two fabric loops, one of them stitched onto the collar.
Pockets: Oval openings cut into the fronts and framed by a doubled placket, with a pocket bag behind each.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with no centre back seam.
Finishing: Raglan shoulder pads; jacket and sleeve hems interfaced.
Lining: Full lining, cut from the main pieces minus the facings and stitched to the jacket and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Oval framed pockets set into a cut-out opening with clipped curves, a two-layer stand collar sewn between jacket and facing, and bagging a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Light coating fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, pocket plackets, hem allowances)
- Raglan shoulder pads
- Decorative hook clasp
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). On the front and placket patterns, seam allowances of 1 cm are given along the inner contour of the opening, regardless of whether the pattern set is ordered with or without seam allowances.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Loop – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
Also, the hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeves is interfaced. Attention: The front and back pieces of the lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- On the front, stitch the darts and press them upwards.
- Pocket construction: When drafting seam allowances independently, trim the corners of the small pocket bag strictly along the transverse marks. Fold the placket pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the inner contour. Clip the allowances, turn the pieces right side out, and press. Cut out the pocket opening on the front. Carefully clip the allowances along the curved edge, stopping 2-3 mm before the placket attachment line. Attach the plackets to the front, aligning the notches. Press the seams away from the center of the pocket. On the small pocket bag, carefully clip the allowances along the curved edge, stopping 2-3 mm before the attachment line. Place the small pocket bag over the plackets, right side down, and stitch to the plackets: along the lower semicircle strictly between the transverse notches. Fold the pocket bag down and press. Attach the upper pocket bag to the plackets: along the upper semicircle strictly between the transverse notches. Stitch the outer edge of the pocket bags.
- Attach the back sleeve to the back, press seams open. Attach the front sleeve to the front, press seams open. Stitch the upper edges of the sleeves. Press seams open. Stitch the lower edges of the sleeves and side edges with one continuous seam. Press seams open.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press seams open.
- Attach the upper collar to the back and front neckline, the lower collar to the facing and front facing neckline. Press seams open.
- Fold the front facings to the front right sides together and stitch the front edge and collar. Trim the allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and shape. Press the collar and front edges. Stitch a reinforcing seam along the collar attachment seam to the neckline. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the lower seam of the right sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge, trim the corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Stitch the lining to the hem of the garment and sleeves. Turn the garment right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the technical opening closed.
- Fold the loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn the loop right side out, press, and cut into 2 pieces. Thread one end of the loop through the closure and topstitch. Adjust the length of the loops according to the position of the closure. Topstitch the second end of the loop to the collar according to the technical drawing.
