Cropped Jacket With Welt Pockets
A stylish and versatile women's sewing pattern for a contemporary short jacket, defined by wide cuffed sleeves, and a chic belted waist.
When To Wear:
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Transitional Seasons: Perfect for layering in spring and autumn.
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Smart Casual & Everyday: Elevates daily wear for a polished yet comfortable look.
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Work & Professional Settings: a modern alternative to a blazer for a chic office ensemble.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a contemporary, relaxed-fit upper body with dropped shoulders, cinched at the waist by a belt for a flattering, cropped profile. Features bust darts for shaping.
Collar: a sleek stand collar provides a modern and refined neckline.
Closure: a concealed front placket with hidden button closure offers a clean, minimalist aesthetic.
Sleeves: Wide, 3/4 length sleeves are finished with broad, stylish cuffs.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with distinct welts are integrated into the front panels.
Waist: An adjustable belt, secured by belt loops, allows for waist definition and styling versatility.
Back: a clean, unseamed back panel ensures a smooth and uninterrupted line.
Length: Cropped length, designed to sit at high hip level.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with advanced techniques such as welt pocket construction, concealed closure, collar setting, and lining installation.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured, medium-weight fabrics that hold shape well for a defined silhouette:
- Coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 5 buttons for the hidden placket
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
- Front cuff — 2 pieces
- Back cuff — 2 pieces
- Grain line reinforcement — 2 pieces
- Belt loop — 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Fly facing – 2 pieces
- Placket lining — 2 pieces
Attention: back and front pieces are cut subtracting the width of the back neck facing and facing respectively.
From fusible interfacing: facing, back neck facing, fly facing – 2 pieces.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, back neck facing, and fly lining.
- Stitch bust darts on the front. Press dart fullness towards the center.
- Mark the pocket placement. Reinforce the pocket opening with a grain line reinforcement. Press the welt pocket flap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt pocket flap. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. Stitch ends should stop at the short marking lines. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt pocket flap and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with double backstitching at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Fold the cuff in half, wrong sides together, and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seam allowances, simultaneously with the sleeve and cuff seam allowances. Press seam allowances open.
- Fly placket construction. Attention! The top buttonhole on the front is not of the fly placket! Mark the placket opening with three lines on the right FACING's right side: the first line is parallel to the placket edge and is 1.5 cm from the finished placket edge; the second and third lines define the placket length. Place the interfaced facing on the right side of the facing, right side down, away from the placket edge, aligning the FACING's cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the placket opening up to the lines defining the placket length. Place the second placket facing flush with the stitching of the first facing and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the accuracy of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the hole. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the placket opening. Turn the FACINGs to the wrong side through the opening, forming a frame from the interfaced facing equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing stitch into the facing attachment seam. Press the second facing towards the inner edge of the facing and stitch a securing stitch 0.1 cm from the facing attachment seam. Mark and overlock buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the facing together with the interfaced facing. Straighten and secure the ends of the placket from the wrong side with double backstitching at the base of the corners. Stitch the facing edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the facing.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seam allowances of the back neck facing and FACINGs.
- Set the outer collar into the neckline of the back and front. Press seam allowances open. Set the inner collar into the neckline of the FACINGs and facing. Press seam allowances open.
- Place the placket lining on the facing and inner collar and stitch the section between the notches. Clip seam allowances at the notches and press the lining to the wrong side. Place the placket lining on the placket and outer collar and stitch the section between the notches. Clip seam allowances at the notches and press the lining to the wrong side. Overlock buttonholes on the placket and inner collar.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch: the right placket from the bottom to the notch, interrupt the stitching and from the notch upwards, along the collar and left placket. Stitching is done from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the FACINGs to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm short of the inner edge of the facing. Trim the seams of the lower placket corners. Turn the plackets to the right side, straighten the seams. Fold back the front and topstitch the placket lining and facing along the marked horizontal lines.
- On the belt loop piece, overlock one long edge. Press the unoverlock edge inwards, covering it with the overlock edge from above. Stitch a double seam, securing the long seam allowances. Cut the belt loop into 2 pieces.
- Stitch the side seam allowances, inserting the belt loops. Clip and press open seam allowances.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the side seams, leaving an opening. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the FACINGs and the back neck facing. Stitch the lining
