CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center upper BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- 2. Side upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. Lower BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 4. Upper FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
- 5. Lower FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- 6. COLLAR — 2 QTY
- 7. Belt — 1 QTY
- From LINING:
- 1. Center upper BACK PANEL - 1 QTY (cut according to main fabric pieces)
- 2. Side upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY (cut according to main fabric pieces)
- 3. FRONT PANEL LINING - 1 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Place COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, turn the COLLAR right side out, smooth, and press.
- Stitch the BACK PANEL princess seams, inserting the end of the COLLAR into the left seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the side edges, serge.
- Stitch shoulder edges, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL, serge.
- On the FRONT PANEL piece, create and secure pleats along the neckline. Slash the first pleat from the center along the marked T-shaped NOTCH to the transverse line, insert the end of the COLLAR, and stitch the pleat along the marking lines. Serge the seam. Attach the COLLAR to the neckline.
- Stitch darts on the lower BACK PANEL pieces, press depths towards the center edge. Serge the center edges of the lower BACK PANEL separately. Stitch the center edge of the lower BACK PANEL up to the slit NOTCH, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, pressing the slit.
- Stitch darts on the lower FRONT PANEL pieces. Press darts towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge. Stitch the upper and lower FRONT PANELs. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge.
- On the LINING pieces, stitch the BACK PANEL princess seams, darts on the FRONT PANEL, and shoulder edges. Press princess seam SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center, shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL. Serge the lower edge. Place the LINING and main fabric piece right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, turn pieces right side out, press. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the BACK PANEL, then the FRONT PANEL. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, turn, press.
- Lay the LINING flat with the main fabric piece. Serge the left side edges and LINING edges separately. Stitch the left side edge of the LINING and main fabric piece between the armhole NOTCHES and from the second NOTCH to the hem. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, pressing the slit. Insert the ZIPPER. Stitch the right side edge of the LINING, continuing the stitch onto the main fabric piece, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Attach the LINING to the ZIPPER tape. Secure the LINING to the garment at the waist seam.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches. Hem the slit allowances with blind stitches.
- Cut a BIAS BINDING 2.5 cm wide and 15 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and smooth the rouleau loop. Cut loops.
- Along the short sides of the belt, on the outer wide side from the NOTCH to the edge and along the marked vertical line, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the length of the inner side of the belt. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch along three sides, inserting the rouleau loops into one of the short sides, and leaving an opening for turning on the long side. Turn the belt right side out, smooth. Stitch a reinforcing vertical stitch into the gathering seam. Adjust the belt length and sew on buttons.
