Cropped Jacket With Welt Pockets
A stylish and versatile women's sewing pattern for a contemporary short lined jacket with wide kimono sleeves finished with deep cuffs, a stand collar, a hidden button closure and welt pockets. Designed to be worn with a wide belt.
When To Wear:
- Transitional Seasons: Perfect for layering in spring and autumn.
- Smart Casual & Everyday: Elevates daily wear for a polished yet comfortable look.
- Work & Professional Settings: A modern alternative to a blazer for a chic office ensemble.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A relaxed upper body with kimono (cut-in) sleeves and bust darts for shaping; designed to be cinched at the waist with a wide belt (belt not included in the pattern).
Collar: A stand collar, cut in two layers, set into the neckline.
Closure: A hidden button closure (fly front) on the right front, with the top buttonhole left visible; the closure is secured by a line of topstitching running up the right front and along the collar.
Sleeves: Wide kimono sleeves cut in one with the front and back, finished with deep cuffs made of separate front and back cuff pieces.
Pockets: Welt pockets with a single welt on each front.
Waist: Two belt loops set into the side seams hold a wide belt in place.
Back: A one-piece back cut on the fold, without a center back seam.
Length: Cropped length, designed to sit at high hip level.
Lining: Fully lined body; the lining is also attached to the inner edge of the cuffs.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with advanced techniques such as welt pocket construction, a hidden button closure, collar setting, and lining installation.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured, medium-weight fabrics that hold shape well for a defined silhouette:
- Coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 5 buttons for the hidden button closure
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Front Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket Reinforcement – 2 pieces
- Belt Loops – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Hidden Button Closure Facing – 2 pieces
- Closure Edge Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Hidden Button Closure Facing – 2 pieces
Attention: the lining Back and Front are cut from the Back and Front pattern pieces minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, the Back Neckline Facing and the Hidden Button Closure Facings.
- Stitch the bust darts on the Front. Press the dart allowances towards the center.
- Welt pockets: mark the pocket placement. Reinforce the pocket opening with the Pocket Reinforcement. Press the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the Front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the Bigger Pocket Bag to the Front along the upper pocket marking line. Both stitching lines end exactly at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts towards the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welt and the Bigger Pocket Bag through the opening to the wrong side. Secure the pocket ends on the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the pocket bags together around the edges.
- Fold each cuff (Front Cuff and Back Cuff) in half, wrong sides together, and press. Stitch the outer layer of each cuff to the lower edge of the corresponding sleeve part on the Front and Back. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams together with the overarm sleeve seams and the cuff seams. Press the seam allowances open.
- Hidden button closure. Attention: the top buttonhole on the front is not part of the hidden closure. On the right side of the right Center Front Facing, mark the closure opening with three lines: the first line runs parallel to the front edge, 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines mark the top and bottom of the closure. Place an interfaced Hidden Button Closure Facing on the right side of the Center Front Facing, face down, extending away from the front edge, with its raw edge on the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the opening, between the lines marking the closure length. Place the second Hidden Button Closure Facing edge to edge with the first stitching line and stitch it 0.5 cm away. Check from the wrong side that the two stitching lines are parallel. Cut the opening, making diagonal cuts 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the facings through to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced facing as wide as the distance between the stitching lines. Stitch in the ditch of the first facing seam to secure it. Press the second facing towards the inner edge of the Center Front Facing and edgestitch 0.1 cm from its attachment seam. Mark and work the buttonholes through the Center Front Facing and the interfaced Hidden Button Closure Facing. Straighten the ends of the closure and secure them on the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the triangles. Stitch the edges of the closure facings together. Make a bar tack between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack equal to the width of the frame. Press the Center Front Facing.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings and press them open.
- Stitch the outer Collar to the neckline of the Back and Fronts. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the inner Collar to the neckline of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the seam allowances open.
- Place a Closure Edge Lining on the Center Front Facing and inner Collar and stitch the section between the notches. Clip the allowances at the notches and press the lining to the wrong side. Place the second Closure Edge Lining on the front edge and outer Collar and stitch the section between the notches. Clip the allowances at the notches and press the lining to the wrong side. Work the buttonholes on the Center Front Facing and the inner Collar.
- Place the Center Front Facings on the Fronts, right sides together, pin, and stitch: along the right front edge from the hem to the notch, break the stitching, then from the notch upwards, around the Collar and down the left front edge. Stitch with the Front on top. Stitch the lower edges of the Center Front Facings to the Fronts exactly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm short of the inner edge of the facing. Trim the seam allowances at the lower front corners. Turn the front edges right side out and straighten the seams. Fold back the Front and stitch the Closure Edge Lining and the closure facings in place along the marked horizontal lines.
- On the Belt Loops piece, overlock one long edge. Press the other long edge to the inside and cover it with the overlocked edge. Stitch two rows of stitching through the overlapping allowances. Cut the strip into 2 belt loops.
- Stitch the side seams, inserting the belt loops. Clip the allowances and press the seams open.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the side seams, leaving an opening in one seam for turning. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the lining to the lower edge of the jacket. Stitch the lining to the inner edge of the cuffs. Press the seams towards the lining. Tack the outer and inner layers of the cuffs together along the attachment seam.
- Topstitch the right front, continuing the topstitching along the Collar, to secure the hidden closure (the topstitching line is marked on the Front pattern piece as the second line from the front edge).
- Sew the buttons on the left front.
