Fitted Blouse with Front Ruffle
A fitted women's blouse with a shirt collar on a stand, a pleated jabot on each side of the button placket and an upper front gathered into a seam under the bust. Long set-in sleeves with buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- For the office under a jacket or with a pencil skirt.
- For dinners and theatre with trousers or a skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, hip length.
Collar: Pointed shirt collar on a separate stand, fastened with a button on the stand.
Front: Upper front gathered between notches into a seam under the bust; lower front in centre and side pieces joined by vertical seams. A double-layer jabot with pleats at its upper edge runs down each side from the neckline to the under-bust seam.
Closure: Separate folded button placket on each front, buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Long, one-piece, set-in; the sleeve seam is left open at the lower end above the cuff.
Back: Centre back seam and vertical darts.
Finishing: Cuffs with one button each; hem pressed up 1.5 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand, separate plackets, gathering into a seam, a lined and pleated jabot and cuffs set onto an opening.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres, for example satin.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (plackets, cuffs, upper collar, inner collar stand)
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Upper front piece - 2 pieces
- Lower side front piece - 2 pieces
- Lower center front piece - 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Jabot – 4 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the plackets, cuffs, upper collar, and inner collar stand with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape it, and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
- Stitch the lower front pieces. Overlock the seam and press it towards the center front.
- Along the lower edge of the upper front piece, between the notches, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together. Overlock the seam and press it downwards.
- Fold the jabot pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the piece right side out, baste, and press. Create and secure pleats along the upper edge according to the marked lines. Place the jabot on the front and secure it at the neckline and center seam.
- Press the plackets in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer edge of the placket to the front. Press the seam towards the placket. Fold the inner edge of the placket inwards and topstitch it into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the back.
- Stitch the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold the open edge of the lower collar stand inwards and topstitch it into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
- Overlock the sleeve edges. Stitch the sleeve seam from the mark upwards, press the allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the sleeve. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked attachment line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch it into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Overlock the hem of the garment, press it to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the collar stand and cuffs.
