Ruffled Collar Jacket

Name: Ruffled Collar Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4201
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4201

A fitted, lined women's jacket with princess seams and a wide collar that continues down the right front edge in a cascading ruffle. Two-piece sleeves and a gathered fabric rose at the shoulder. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fine suiting fabric of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Ruffled Collar Jacket

A fitted, lined women's jacket with princess seams and a wide collar that continues down the right front edge in a cascading ruffle. Two-piece sleeves and a gathered fabric rose at the shoulder.

When To Wear

For the office over a blouse or a fine knit, with a skirt or trousers.
For daytime events in spring and autumn, over a sheath dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted at the waist with princess seams on the front and back; hip length.

Collar: Wide double-layer collar lying flat around the back neck and shoulders; at the front it is sewn on along the right front edge, where it falls in a ruffled cascade.

Front: Princess seams from the armholes; single-breasted button closure with buttonholes on the right front; interfaced fronts and facings.

Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap, shoulder pads and sleeve heads; sleeve hem allowance 3 cm.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts at the upper back; back neck facing.

Finishing: A rose made from a 90 × 12 cm bias strip, folded, gathered and sewn to the left front near the shoulder; jacket hem allowance 3 cm.

Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves, sewn to the facings and to the jacket and sleeve hems; the jacket is turned through an opening in the lining sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A collar set into the neckline and front edge, two-piece sleeves with an eased cap, shoulder pads and a full bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Fine suiting fabric of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, sleeve hems)
5 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). Attention: The front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the facings and the back neckline facing, respectively.

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interlining:
- Center front
- Front facing
- Back neckline facing
- Sleeve hem

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Fuse the back neckline.
Stitch darts on the back. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch princess seams on the back. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowance open.
Stitch princess seams on the front. Press seam allowances towards the center.
Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
Fold collars right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Turn out and shape the collar. Attach the collar to the neckline and stitch along the right front edge.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch shoulder seams of facings and neckline facing. Press seam allowances open. Attach lining to facings and neckline facing.
Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the facing. Trim seam allowances at corners. Turn facings to the right side, straighten seams. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket through the opening. Close the opening.
On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
Cut a bias strip for a decorative rose, 90 cm long and 12 cm wide. Fold the rose piece in half lengthwise, right side out, overlock the raw edges. Stitch along the raw edges with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Form a flower from the piece and secure it to the jacket.