Jacket with Decorative Front Placket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic jacket featuring a deep V-neckline and a meticulously fitted waist with a three-button closure.
When To Wear
This fitted jacket offers versatile styling for various occasions, making it an excellent choice for:
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Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear or business meetings due to its tailored silhouette.
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Smart Casual Outings: Perfect for adding a polished touch to everyday ensembles or date nights.
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Semi-Formal Events: a sophisticated layering piece for dinners or social gatherings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Tailored and fitted, designed to cinch the waist for a flattering shape.
Neckline: A deep V-neckline edged with a folded decorative edge piece attached along the front edges, standing up like a low collar for an elegant open front.
Closure: Three-button front closure centrally located on the fitted waist panel.
Sleeves: Full-length, two-piece set-in sleeves with a gathered sleeve cap for a softly raised shoulder.
Waist: A wide inset panel at the waist on the front and back; the upper front is shaped with pleats above it, and lower front and back panels complete the jacket below.
Back: Constructed with darts, princess seams and a centre back seam above the waist inset for refined shaping.
Length: Finishes at hip length, offering a versatile jacket suitable for various pairings.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Involves precise tailoring techniques, complex panel construction, lining installation, and sleeve setting with gathering.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics that offer structure and drape for a polished finish:
- Thin suiting fabric from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Note: Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing respectively.
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Inset – 1 piece
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Decorative Edge Facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Back Inset – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front
- Back Neckline Facing
- Sleeve hem allowance
- Center Front Facing
- Decorative Edge Facing
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces listed above, including the back neckline and the sleeve hem allowance.
- On the back, stitch the darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back and press. Stitch the center back seam and press open.
- On the Center Front, stitch the pleats at the markings. Press them towards the center.
- Stitch the Front Inset and Back Inset to the front and back. Stitch on the Lower Front and Lower Back. Press the allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Fold each Decorative Edge Facing in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch across the upper end. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the Decorative Edge Facing to the front edge of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Along the sleeve cap edge, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and attach the sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the allowances open. Stitch the lining to the facings.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together (the Decorative Edge Facing lies between them), pin and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the fronts strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners. Turn the fronts right side out and straighten the seams. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.