Structured Pencil Skirt
A women's knee-length denim pencil skirt with deep faced yokes front and back instead of a waistband, curved panel seams, two zip pockets on the front and a back slit. Front fly zip with one button.
When To Wear
- With shirts, T-shirts and knitwear for everyday wear.
- In autumn and spring with tights and boots or a denim or leather jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted pencil shape, narrowing slightly towards the hem.
Length: To the knee.
Waist: No waistband; the top is finished with deep front and back yokes faced by inner yokes, with a V-notch at the centre front and centre back of the upper edge.
Closure: Front fly zip with a cut-on fly, separate fly shield and a bar tack; one buttonhole and button at the top of the yoke.
Front: Centre front seam, and curved panel seams joining the centre front and side front pieces, topstitched 0.5 cm.
Pockets: Two zip pockets cut into the front just below the yoke, the zip stitched 0.1 cm from the opening, with pocket bags in main and cotton fabric.
Back: Centre back and side back panels topstitched 0.5 cm, back yoke, centre back seam ending in a slit.
Finishing: Seams overlocked and topstitched; yoke seams, slit and 4 cm hem topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A fly zip, two inset zip pockets, faced yokes joined at the back and a slit with the hem folded over its allowance.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 zip for the fly
- 2 zips for the pockets
- 1 button
- Cotton fabric for pocket bags
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Allowance along the slit — 3 cm, hem allowance 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 4 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 4 pieces
- Fly shield — 1 piece
- Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
- From cotton fabric:
- Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the pocket opening with a lengthwise grain strip. Cut the pocket opening in the middle along the marking line, making diagonal cuts towards the corners of the pocket marking. Press the allowances to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the pocket opening. From the right side of the front, stitch the zipper 0.1 cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the small pocket bag to the bottom tape of the zipper and turn it down. Stitch the large pocket bag to the top tape of the zipper. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags.
- Stitch the side and center front parts. Notch the seam at the corner, press the allowances towards the center and overlock. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the yoke to the front. Press the seam towards the yoke, overlock and topstitch.
- Stitch the center and side back parts. Press the seam towards the center back, overlock and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the back yoke. Press the seam towards the yoke, overlock and topstitch.
- Stitch the side seams. Overlock the seam and press towards the back.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes. Press the seams open. Overlock the bottom edge of the yokes.
- From the left front half, cut off the one-piece facing, leaving a 1 cm allowance along the center seam. On the left inner yoke, cut off the one-piece facing, on the right inner yoke, cut off a section equal to the width of the one-piece fly. Stitch the center seam of the front halves, starting the stitch at the edge of the one-piece facing. Overlock the front center seam from the beginning of the stitch to the bottom. Separately overlock the fly edge. Press the one-piece fly to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the one-piece fly of the right half. Stitch the inner yoke to the fly. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise with the wrong side in and stitch the long and short bottom edges. Overlock the open edges of the fly shield. Stitch the fly shield to the zipper attachment seam of the left half. Fold the outer and inner yokes together and stitch the top edge and the corner at the back up to the marked line of the center back seam. Topstitch along the marked line on the right half. Place a bar tack at the end of the closure on the right side of the skirt. Stitch the open edge of the left inner yoke to the zipper attachment seam. From the wrong side, connect the bottom ends of the fly and fly shield. Topstitch the inner yokes into the seam of attaching the upper yokes.
- Insert the right back into the left between the inner yoke and the main piece. Stitch the center back seam from the corner to the slit. Overlock the seam, press towards the left side, turn the pieces right side out.
- Overlock the allowances along the slit. Notch the center back seam, press the slit open. Press the hem allowance first by 1 cm, then by another 3 cm over the slit allowance. Topstitch along the center back seam, slit, and bottom of the skirt according to the technical drawing.
- According to the marking, make the buttonhole and sew on the button.
