Structured Pencil Skirt
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a structured pencil skirt, featuring distinctive front zipper pockets and shaping yokes on both front and back.
When To Wear
This structured pencil skirt is a versatile garment suitable for a range of occasions, including:
- Professional Chic: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, or professional events due to its polished and structured silhouette.
- Smart Casual Outings: Perfect for a stylish daytime look, casual dinners, or weekend excursions when paired with a fitted top or sweater.
- Fashion-Forward Ensemble: Great for creating a sophisticated and modern statement, especially when crafted from materials like faux leather or denim.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, knee-length pencil silhouette that creates a sleek and elegant line.
Waist: High-waisted design with a shaped waistband for a flattering fit.
Closure: Features a functional front fly zipper closure, secured with a button at the waistband.
Pockets: Two angled front pockets with exposed zipper closures add a modern and practical element.
Construction: Structured with front and back yokes, along with vertical style lines on both panels, ensuring a tailored fit and visual interest.
Hem: Straight hem designed to hit at or just below the knee, with a suggested back vent for ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise zipper insertions for both the fly and the pockets, careful matching of yoke seams, and working with structured fabrics.
Fabric Recommendations
Opt for structured woven fabrics that hold their shape well and provide a crisp finish:
- Denim fabrics
- Other structured wovens such as twill or corduroy
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 zipper for the main closure
- 2 zippers for the pockets
- 1 button
- Cotton fabric for pocket bags
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Allowance along the slit — 3 cm, hem allowance 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 4 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 4 pieces
- Fly shield — 1 piece
- Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
- From cotton fabric:
- Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the pocket opening with a lengthwise grain strip. Cut the pocket opening in the middle along the marking line, making diagonal cuts towards the corners of the pocket marking. Press the allowances to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the pocket opening. From the right side of the front, stitch the zipper 0.1 cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the small pocket bag to the bottom tape of the zipper and turn it down. Stitch the large pocket bag to the top tape of the zipper. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags.
- Stitch the side and center front parts. Notch the seam at the corner, press the allowances towards the center and overlock. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the yoke to the front. Press the seam towards the yoke, overlock and topstitch.
- Stitch the center and side back parts. Press the seam towards the center back, overlock and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the back yoke. Press the seam towards the yoke, overlock and topstitch.
- Stitch the side seams. Overlock the seam and press towards the back.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes. Press the seams open. Overlock the bottom edge of the yokes.
- From the left front half, cut off the one-piece facing, leaving a 1 cm allowance along the center seam. On the left inner yoke, cut off the one-piece facing, on the right inner yoke, cut off a section equal to the width of the one-piece fly. Stitch the center seam of the front halves, starting the stitch at the edge of the one-piece facing. Overlock the front center seam from the beginning of the stitch to the bottom. Separately overlock the fly edge. Press the one-piece fly to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the one-piece fly of the right half. Stitch the inner yoke to the fly. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise with the wrong side in and stitch the long and short bottom edges. Overlock the open edges of the fly shield. Stitch the fly shield to the zipper attachment seam of the left half. Fold the outer and inner yokes together and stitch the top edge and the corner at the back up to the marked line of the center back seam. Topstitch along the marked line on the right half. Place a bar tack at the end of the closure on the right side of the skirt. Stitch the open edge of the left inner yoke to the zipper attachment seam. From the wrong side, connect the bottom ends of the fly and fly shield. Topstitch the inner yokes into the seam of attaching the upper yokes.
- Insert the right back into the left between the inner yoke and the main piece. Stitch the center back seam from the corner to the slit. Overlock the seam, press towards the left side, turn the pieces right side out.
- Overlock the allowances along the slit. Notch the center back seam, press the slit open. Press the hem allowance first by 1 cm, then by another 3 cm over the slit allowance. Topstitch along the center back seam, slit, and bottom of the skirt according to the technical drawing.
- According to the marking, overlock the buttonhole and sew on the button.
