Insulated Hooded Coat
A women's knee-length insulated coat in raincoat fabric with a drawstring hood, front and back yokes, rows of elastic stitched inside the body and sleeves to form puffed tiers, and a gathered insulated frill at the hem. Two-way open-ended zip under a snap storm placket, welt pockets in the front panel seams and an elasticated belt with a buckle.
When To Wear
- In cold, wet weather in late autumn and winter.
- Over jumpers and trousers or jeans for everyday wear and walks.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Gathered below the yokes, drawn in at the waist by the belt, with a frill added at the hem.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: No collar; a hood of a centre panel and two side panels, seams topstitched 0.7 cm, drawstring through two eyelets with cord stoppers and cord ends; the hood opening is topstitched 3 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves, insulated to the hem, with rows of elastic stitched on the wrong side.
Closure: Open-ended zip, its left half sewn to an inner placket; a windproof placket with 5 large snaps on the right front.
Pockets: Welt pockets in the seams between the centre and side fronts, with elastic at the pocket opening level.
Front: Yoke, centre and side front panels topstitched 0.7 cm, gathered into the yoke seam.
Back: Yoke, centre back and two side back panels, gathered into the yoke seam.
Waist: Belt with 7 cm elastic inside, passed through a buckle and two belt loops at the side seams.
Finishing: All outer pieces quilted onto insulation; the lower frill is gathered at both edges and wrapped around its own insulation. Front edges topstitched 0.7 cm from the edge.
Lining: Full lining with a back neckline facing and front facings in the main fabric; the hood is lined with main fabric.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Many pieces quilted onto insulation, elastic stitched under tension along markings, gathered tiers and frill, seam welt pockets, an open-ended zip with inner and storm plackets, snaps and eyelets, and a full bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric. Check before starting that the fabric withstands steam and pressing.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Insulation (polyester wadding, Isosoft)
- Open-ended zip (length given on the front pattern piece)
- Elastic for the quilted tiers, 1.5–2 cm wide
- Elastic for the belt, 7 cm wide
- Decorative buckle for a 7 cm belt
- 5 large snaps
- 2 eyelets
- Cord for the hood, 2 cord ends, 2 cord stoppers
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: lining edges – 1 cm, sleeve hem – 3 cm, all other seams – 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 2 pieces (outer hood and hood lining)
- Hood Side – 4 pieces (outer hood and hood lining)
- Off-Set Welt – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Windproof Placket – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Inner Placket – 2 pieces
- Belt-Loop – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Side Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Back Lining – 1 piece
- Side Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- From insulation:
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back Warmer – 1 piece
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front Warmer – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Hood Side – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Windproof Placket – 1 piece
- Inner Placket – 1 piece
Note: 1). The hood lining is cut from the main fabric (Center Hood and Hood Side). 2). Sleeve insulation extends to the hemline. 3). The yoke lining and insulation are cut using the Back Yoke and Front Yoke patterns. 4). Before starting work, check the fabric's resistance to wet-heat treatment.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the yokes, center and side back and front pieces, as well as the hood and sleeve pieces, onto the corresponding insulation pieces. Stitch the placket and welt pieces onto the insulation. Stitch the Windproof Placket, Inner Placket and Off-Set Welt pieces in pairs, right sides together, along the short sides and one long side. Turn the pieces right side out, press, and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Join the Lower Back Warmer and Lower Front Warmer insulation pieces with a lapped seam. Stitch the side seams of the Lower Back and Lower Front. Press the seams towards the back. Along the upper and lower edges of the lower section, stitch with loosened stitches and gather it to the length of the insulation. Stitch the upper edge of the lower section to the insulation, wrap the fabric around the insulation, and stitch the gathered lower edge to the upper edge on the wrong side.
- On the wrong side of the center and side front pieces, at the pocket opening level, stitch elastic, slightly stretching it (elastic length is indicated on the patterns).
- Stitch the Off-Set Welt together with a Pocket Bag to the Center Front. Stitch the second Pocket Bag to the Side Front. Stitch the Center Front and Side Front together, stitching the pocket bags together at the same time. Press the seam towards the center and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Along the upper edge of the front, stitch with loosened stitches and gather. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Press the seam upwards.
- Stitch the Side Back pieces to the Center Back. Press the seams towards the center back and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Along the upper edge of the back, stitch with loosened stitches and gather. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Press the seam upwards.
- On the wrong side of the back, front, and sleeve pieces, stitch elastic along the markings, slightly stretching it (elastic length is indicated on the patterns).
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the Center Hood and Hood Side pieces. Press the seams towards the Center Hood and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Insert the eyelets according to the markings. Set the hood into the neckline. Press the seam.
- Stitch the left half of the zipper onto the Inner Placket, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the open edge of the placket. Stitch the placket with the zipper to the left front edge. Attach the right half of the zipper to the right front piece.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Set in sleeves at the armhole, matching notches.
- Lining: Assemble the lining pieces of the back, front and hood separately. Press under the outer edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings and topstitch them onto the back and front lining respectively. Stitch the shoulder seams. Set the Sleeve Lining into the open armhole. Stitch the side seam, simultaneously stitching the sleeve seam, leaving an opening for turning in the left sleeve. Attach the hood to the neckline.
- Fold the Belt-Loop in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the long edge. Turn it right side out, press, and cut into 2 pieces. Sew the belt loops at the side seam at waist level.
- Along the lower edge of the coat, stitch with loosened stitches and gather it to the length of the lower section. Stitch the lower section (Lower Back and Lower Front) to the lower edge of the coat.
- Face the front edge with lining, simultaneously facing the hood. Secure the hood attachment allowances of the main fabric and lining pieces together. Topstitch along the front edge 0.7 cm from the edge. Topstitch along the hood opening 3 cm from the edge. Stitch the lining to the seam allowance of the lower section (ruffle) seam. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Close the opening in the sleeve.
- Install the snaps on the Windproof Placket. Stitch the Windproof Placket to the right front according to the markings. Install snaps on the left front piece.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long side. Insert elastic, secure it at the sides, and stitch a reinforcing seam in the middle of the belt. Thread the ends of the belt through the buckle and adjust the length. Turn the ends inwards and topstitch. Thread the belt through the belt loops.
- Thread the cord into the hood through the eyelets, add the cord stoppers and attach the cord ends.
