Asymmetric Mock Wrap Bow Pencil Skirt
A women's straight skirt above the knee with a mock-wrap front: an overlay panel with a diagonal edge lies over a full front panel and is pleated into a fabric bow at one hip. The waist is faced without a waistband, and the back has darts, a concealed zip and a faced slit at the hem.
When To Wear
- For the office with a blouse or fine knit top.
- For daytime events and dinners, with heeled shoes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, close-fitting pencil shape.
Length: Above the knee.
Front: A full front panel under an asymmetric overlay. The overlay's upper, diagonal and lower edges are turned in and topstitched (0.2 cm on the upper and diagonal edges, 3 cm at the hem). Its centre edge is laid in small pleats and joined to a second pleated overlay piece set into the side seam between marks.
Back: Two back panels with darts and a centre back seam; a slit at the hem finished with interfaced facings.
Closure: Concealed zip in the centre back seam.
Waist: No waistband; the top edge is finished with interfaced facings, understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Finishing: A two-layer bow, slipped through a fabric loop that wraps the seam joining the overlay pieces and is stitched to the front at the markings. Hem turned up 3 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pleating the overlay to length, a faced back slit with a mitred lower corner, a concealed zip and a faced waist.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- 1 concealed zip
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, slit facings)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 3 cm. Slit facing inner edge allowance – 0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need. Markings on patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 1 piece
- Overlay – 1 piece
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
- Left of overlay – 1 piece
- Bow – 2 pieces
- Bridge – 1 piece
- Slit facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 1 piece
- Slit facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Reinforce the upper edge facings and slit facings with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces, press the dart depths towards the center.
- Overlock the center edges of the back. Stitch the center edge of the back from the zipper mark to the slit mark. Press seams open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
- Overlock the outer edges of the slit facings. Face the slit with facings from the mark to the bottom. Face the bottom corner of the slit exactly along the marked hemline. Trim seam allowances. Turn the facing to the wrong side, shaping the bottom corner.
- Overlock the overlay edges: upper, bias, and lower. Face the bottom corner, turn to the right side. Press the upper, bias, and lower edges to the wrong side and topstitch: upper and bias at 0.2 cm from the edge, lower at 3.0 cm. Lay the center edge in pleats to the desired length, secure and overlock. Place the overlay on the front and secure along the side edge (note that the side edge of the overlay is 1 cm shorter at the top and 3 cm shorter at the bottom).
- Overlock the left of the overlay along the upper and lower sides. Press the upper and lower sides to the wrong side, topstitch at 0.2 cm from the edge. Place the left overlay on the front between the marks on the side edge, lay in pleats to the desired length and secure. Lay the center edge of the left overlay in pleats, secure, overlock and stitch it to the right overlay. Press seams open.
- Stitch the side edges, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the side edges of the facings. Overlock the lower edge. Place the facing with the skirt right sides together and face the upper edge. Topstitch seam allowances to the facing at 0.2 cm from the facing seam. Fold the facings to the wrong side, press. Fold the center edges of the facing and sew to the zipper tape.
- Overlock the lower edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and topstitch with a 3.0 cm seam according to the technical drawing, securing the facing.
- Place the bow pieces right sides together and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning in the middle of the upper or lower edge (which will not be visible under the bridge). Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the bow to the right side, press, stitch the opening closed.
- Stitch the longitudinal edges of the bridge, press seam allowances open, positioning the seam in the middle of the piece. Overlock the short edges. Wrap the bridge around the seam of the overlay panels and stitch the bridge into a loop. Thread the bow through the bridge, attach. Attach the bridge to the front according to the markings.
