Asymmetric Crossover Pleated Belted Dress

Name: Asymmetric Crossover Pleated Belted Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4030
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4030

A sleeveless women's sheath dress in two contrasting fabrics, with an asymmetric crossover front: a pleated upper right front laps over the centre front to form a V-neckline, and the pleated left front is joined to the centre front by a seam that runs to the hem. Worn with a narrow belt. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres in two contrasting colours, one dark and one light.

Tech. Description

Asymmetric Pleated Belted Dress

When To Wear

At the office and at daytime events in spring and summer, on its own or under a jacket.
For dinners and celebrations, with the belt at the waist.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted sheath without a waist seam, shaped with bust darts and waist darts on the front and back.

Length: Around the knee.

Neckline: V-neckline formed by the crossover band of the upper right front; the neckline is finished with interfaced facings attached to the zipper tape.

Sleeves: Sleeveless, with extended shoulders; armholes bound with a 4 cm bias strip folded in half and topstitched along the fold.

Front: Three panels: upper right front, centre front and left front. The upper right front has pleats turned towards the armhole; the left front has pleats turned towards the centre.

Back: Upper back joined to the lower back by a horizontal seam below the neckline, centre back seam, waist darts.

Closure: Invisible zipper in the centre back seam, from the neckline to the notch.

Waist: Marked by a ready-made narrow belt; the drawing shows it wrapped twice and fastened with a buckle.

Finishing: Two-tone cut: upper back, upper right front, left front, back facings and right front facing from the dark fabric; lower back, centre front and left front facing from the light fabric. Hem turned up 2 cm and topstitched; bar tack at the side seam under the armhole.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats on two asymmetric front panels, seams clipped into corners, a neckline facing set with one front panel sandwiched in between, an invisible zipper and bias-bound armholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres in two contrasting colours, one dark and one light.

Additional Supplies

Invisible zipper
Fusible interfacing (neckline facings)
Bias tape 4 cm wide, or bias strips cut from the fabric
Belt

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm, other seams 1 cm; Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side.

From dark fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Right Front Facing – 1 piece
From light fabric:
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 1 piece
- Left Front Facing – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Back Facing, Right Front Facing, Left Front Facing

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the facings.
Stitch darts on back and front pieces. Press bust darts upwards, waist darts towards the center of the piece.
Attach the upper back to the lower back. Press the seam upwards and overlock. Overlock the center back edge. Stitch the center seam from the zipper notch to the bottom. Press the seam open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the zipper from the upper edge to the notch.
Attach the upper right front to the center front from the shoulder edge to the corner. Clip the allowance at the corner, overlock the seam and press towards the center front. Form and secure pleats on the upper right front (depths directed towards the armhole).
Form and secure pleats on the left front (depths directed towards the center edge). Attach the left front to the center front, clipping at the corner. Press the allowances towards the center front in the upper part and towards the left side seam in the lower part; overlock.
Stitch shoulder seams. Press allowances towards the back and overlock.
Stitch shoulder seams of facings. Press allowances open and overlock. Overlock the outer edge of the facings. Place the right front facing on the dress right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip the seam at curves, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch seam allowances to the facing. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
Complete the seam joining the upper right front to the center front; overlock the allowances. Place the left front facing on the dress right sides together, with the upper right front sandwiched between them, and stitch. Clip the seam at curves, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch seam allowances to the facing. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
Cut (if not ready-made) bias tape 4 cm wide and length equal to armhole length + 5cm. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the bias tape on the right side of the armhole, raw edges aligned, and stitch; fold the bias tape to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
Stitch side seams of back and front. Press allowances towards the back and overlock. Place a bar tack on the side seam at the armhole.
Overlock the hem of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.