Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: fabrics made from natural or blended fibers, for example, denim fabric. Also needed: companion fabric for binding; contrasting thread for topstitching; 1 invisible zipper; 8 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 1 piece
- Shoulder tab – 2 pieces
- From companion fabric:
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Shoulder tab – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Topstitch along the seam 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Overcast the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
- Form and secure the pleats on the center front according to the markings. Place the pocket bag on the center front and stitch the pocket opening. Clip allowances at curves, clip the princess seam allowance at the mark. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, form a 0.3 cm wide edge from the pocket bag, press. Topstitch along the pocket opening 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the front princess seams from the shoulder edge to the mark. Stop the stitching and stitch the pocket bag to the lower part of the side front from the mark to the side edge. Press princess seam allowances towards the center and overcast, continuing onto the pocket bag. Topstitch along the seam 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Cut bias strips from companion fabric, 5 cm wide and with length equal to the neckline length and the lower sleeve edge length. Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and bind the neckline edge and the lower sleeve edges. Form a 0.3 cm wide edge from the bias strip, press. Topstitch the bias strip onto the garment 0.1 cm from the fold. Fold the ends of the bias strip at the zipper and hand stitch.
- Place shoulder tab pieces right sides together and stitch the long and angled sides. Trim allowances at corners, turn the shoulder tab right side out, press. Overcast the open edge. Work a buttonhole on the shoulder tab. Place the shoulder tab from the wrong side onto the shoulder seam, aligning the mark and the shoulder tab attachment seam, and topstitch. Sew the button according to the marking, fasten the shoulder tab.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Press the bottom edge of the garment 1 cm, then another 2 cm, and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the pleats according to the technical drawing.
