Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense silk dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting colors. Also needed: fusible interlining; decorative tape 1 cm wide and approximately 30 cm long; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 1.5 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom – 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Central lower back part - 2 pieces
- Side lower back part - 2 pieces
- Central lower front part - 1 piece
- Side lower front part - 2 pieces
- From contrast fabric:
- Central upper back part - 2 pieces
- Side upper back part - 2 pieces
- Central upper front part – 2 pieces
- Side upper front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the neckline facings.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper back, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the princess seams on the lower back, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- On both central lower back pieces, fuse the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece, overcasting the vent simultaneously. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the edge of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right side. Press open the center seam allowances, pressing the zipper opening and the vent. Press the right side of the vent 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the vent allowances towards the left side and topstitch along the top with a machine stitch. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper front, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Overcast the outer edge of the back and front neckline facings. Place the front neckline facings with the front and stitch the neckline from the mark to the shoulder seam, stopping 3-4 cm before it. Clip the allowance at the mark, turn the facing to the right side.
- Stitch the princess seams on the lower front, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Attach the upper front parts to the lower, press allowances upwards and overcast. Topstitch the free edge of the front neckline facing into the seam attaching the upper part to the lower.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings, place them with the dress and stitch the back neckline edge and the section of the front neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facings to the right side. Fold under the allowance of the center facing edge and attach it to the zipper tape. Topstitch along the back neckline and front neckline.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the sleeve, press 1.5 cm to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the sleeve seam. Press allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and overcast.
- Press the hem allowance of the dress bottom to the wrong side, fold inwards another 1 cm and topstitch.
- Form a bow from the decorative tape and sew it on according to the technical drawing.
